'72 Wagon: Bueiz

[Bike papa]

Glad it was something simple.
The good thing it that you will never make that mistake again.

BTW. Nice goon!
BP

[bueiz]

...at the exhaust shop.

[bueiz]

...exhaust redone.

[bueiz]

Made the commute to work. I can say that the New Orleans roads are not the friendliest on lowered cars.

Some of you asked about the spring rating up front. I guess I can't complain, it's a little bouncy on rough roads, but it's also saved me from bottoming out.

[bueiz]

Added some personal flair to the underside of the hood.

[bueiz]

Team, I've been chasing a hesitation issue like a madman. The wagon is choking up under acceleration.

I took the engine from bone-stock and swapped out the OE carb for a Weber 32/36 DGV, new plugs, new wires, Pertronix EIM, Pertronix Coil, I think I timed it right, new mechanical fuel pump, new fuel filter. Still have issues.

I uploaded a video to Youtube, here:
https://youtu.be/Xm5WFdkNiRE

Let me know what you guys think.

[wagoneer]

If the system is totally dry - bled out from the master all the way to each wheel cylinder/caliper, I do find it rough to just get some fluid moving through the system at first.

For starters
- Definitely a 2 person job moving forward
- If you are using a one person fancy bleeder, well I haven’t found one I like, I prefer a person on the pedal

First up, you need to get fluid in the system at all four corners. From this point on, you need a pedal lackie - someone who can listen to you when you say pump, down, and again! It just takes one time where the person at the pedal brings the pedal up while the bleeder is still open and all your efforts are for not.
Secondly - never run out of fluid! Again, you'll be starting all over again. So 6 or 8 good bleeds (once the fluid is rolling) and you have to get back up off the floor and check that reservoir. It’s a pain in the ass, but even more of a pain to start again – not to mention a waste of fluid.
Also, a little hint here. The caps will be off the reservoirs throughout the process, make sure the (clean) screens are in the reservoir. These help diffuse the splash as the piston moves back and forth uncovering and recovering the port to the reservoir. Without the screen in place, little shots of paint eating brake fluid shoot pretty high out of the M/C though the process.
Step 1) Starting at the master - obviously full at all times - open one of the bleeders 1/4 turn - that's all it takes. Place your finger with slight pressure over the bleeder (and a rag underneath held with the other hand) and get your pedal person to slowly cycle the pedal to the floor and back again - note slowly - 2 second cycles each direction. (Don’t hit the pedal with your foot – this agitates the fluid, possibly causing air bubbles and uses a lot of energy. You may feel little puffs of air at the bleeder as the pedal goes down, until you get fluid. As the pedal cycles back up, you just need enough pressure so that the piston doesn't draw air back into the reservoir. Once you have fluid, stop, close the bleeder nipple and repeat for the other circuit on the master.
Step 2) Now, you are going to do the same method at the wheel cylinders/calipers just to get fluid in the lines. Start at the furthest point from the master for each front and rear circuit. Which circuit you do first really doesn't matter – they are completely partitioned from one another. But the pass front and drivers rear are the furthest away due to the line routing. Again, crack one bleeder at a time (1/4 turn), with very slight pressure over the bleeder nipple, get your pedal guy to slowly cycle again until you get fluid. Close the bleeder. Repeat on the opposite side of that same circuit. On the rear brakes you'll really notice the little puffs of air in a dry system for a number of cycles. ***Watch that fluid level!*** 6 cycles and it could be empty depending on your bore sizes of the M/C and wheel cylinders. Repeat for the front and rear circuits until you have fluid at all four corners.
Step 3) You should be able to get some sort of pedal - likely spongy, but it will pump up with a few pumps. Now you pressure bleed the system, starting at the M/C again. Which circuit doesn't matter. What is really important here is that your pedal lackie listens and follows your directions. The bleeder person is always in control of the routine at all times. The routine is;

1) "Pump up" ( pedal person shouldn't usually need more than 3 pumps on the pedal)
2) "Hold" (pedal guy says holding the pedal down, placing a moderate pressure on the pedal - at first it will hardly be anything, but will get better as the air is bled out)
3) Crack the bleeder ¼ turn (catching fluid in either a rag or into a hose and then into a bottle)
4) Pedal guy says "Floor" when the pedal hits the floor (DO NOT LIFT PEDAL UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE!)
5) Close bleeder nipple and then say "Closed", signaling that the circuit is sealed
6) Pedal person can now release pedal to its natural up position
7) Bleeder says "Again" to start the cycle over. Repeat back to #1

I use a piece of 3/16 clear vinyl tubing, this way I can visibly see the air bubbles coming out. Bleed until there is absolutely no air bubbles visible.

I do not recycle the fluid that has been bled through the system, mostly because contamination is very easy. When bleeding the M/C, it usually doesn't take many cycles to get the fluid moving, and again rigging up a recycle system isn't worthwhile. New, fresh fluid is vital to good brakes. And your brakes are just something you don't cut corners on. If you need a few more ounces of fluid, just buy it is my advice.

Hopefully it works out for you, and hopeful this explanation helped if you didn’t already complete the steps above.

Keep us posted, good luck.

Byron

[wagoneer]

This is very helpful for a novice like me.
Thanks Byron510