had an L20B in my car before and puchased a rebuilt one.
putting in the new engine and for some reason the motor mounts won't line up properly.
Transmission is bolted in and one motor mount is loosely on but one side will never line up, and i have tried bottom bolts first and top bolt first with no luck.
it always seems to be off by about 1/4 inch to 1/2
this should be so simple and i really can't figure out whats wrong since it worked fine on my old engine
any advice would be appreciated.
L20B motor mount problems....
L20B motor mount problems....
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Re: L20B motor mount problems....
Can you show a picture of the other side??
Finished is better than perfect......
- bertvorgon
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Re: L20B motor mount problems....
I bet your other mounts were slotted ( filed out ) so that the engine can drop down for hood clearance.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Re: L20B motor mount problems....
Are these the same mounts with a new engine?
Finished is better than perfect......
Re: L20B motor mount problems....
same mounts with new engine. other side is on the mount but not tightened down all the way
Re: L20B motor mount problems....
Because of the angles of the two studs, this is a bit of a PITA job.
What I have found is that you loosen off everything on both sides to give yourself the most wiggle room. This means backing off both isolator mount to crossmember bolts to the point of having only a couple threads left in place. The same goes for the nut on the motor mount stud (leave the washers out for now to gain more wiggle room) and the bolts bolting the motor mount to the block. Having all the bolts in place, but really loose gives to the best chance to get everything started when the engine is still on the crane or when you have a jack under it (watch you don't damage the pan!)
The last fasteners I try to assemble are the two stud to motor mount nuts, having the two 8mm bolts on each side from the isolator to the cross member loose gives you more latitude to correct the angles so that the motor can be lowered down on them.
If all else fails, and some times it does, then remove one 8mm bolt from the isolator to the cross member , this gives you the ability to rotate the isolator until the stud can just get through the engine mount hole. Just install the nut (you can reassemble with the washers later). Then try to turn the isolator around to its correct orientation so you can get that 8mm bolt back into position. You'll note two holes in the top of the isolator and matching ones in the cross member. These are there to use an alignment tool in, a good Phillips screw drive often works well. Then as you lower the motor onto the crossmember, along with the isolator and install the last 8mm bolt. Again, support the motor slightly off the mount so that you can twist it and feel when the threads enguage.
Hope these two methods help as this is what I've learned working on L motors over the yeas.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Byron
What I have found is that you loosen off everything on both sides to give yourself the most wiggle room. This means backing off both isolator mount to crossmember bolts to the point of having only a couple threads left in place. The same goes for the nut on the motor mount stud (leave the washers out for now to gain more wiggle room) and the bolts bolting the motor mount to the block. Having all the bolts in place, but really loose gives to the best chance to get everything started when the engine is still on the crane or when you have a jack under it (watch you don't damage the pan!)
The last fasteners I try to assemble are the two stud to motor mount nuts, having the two 8mm bolts on each side from the isolator to the cross member loose gives you more latitude to correct the angles so that the motor can be lowered down on them.
If all else fails, and some times it does, then remove one 8mm bolt from the isolator to the cross member , this gives you the ability to rotate the isolator until the stud can just get through the engine mount hole. Just install the nut (you can reassemble with the washers later). Then try to turn the isolator around to its correct orientation so you can get that 8mm bolt back into position. You'll note two holes in the top of the isolator and matching ones in the cross member. These are there to use an alignment tool in, a good Phillips screw drive often works well. Then as you lower the motor onto the crossmember, along with the isolator and install the last 8mm bolt. Again, support the motor slightly off the mount so that you can twist it and feel when the threads enguage.
Hope these two methods help as this is what I've learned working on L motors over the yeas.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
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- Posts: 513
- Joined: 15 Oct 2006 12:03
- Location: Eugene,Oregon
Re: L20B motor mount problems....
Ditto on what Byron said, you will have to wrestle that baby in hehe
Diego.
Re: L20B motor mount problems....
I just install one last week...keep all bolts loose. Than tap the rubber mounts down with hammer until bolt holes line up