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scheerluck
Posts: 9
Joined: 05 Sep 2016 08:27
Location: Maryland - Baltimore/DC/Annapolis

Hello

Post by scheerluck »

I picked up '72 510 4-door a few months ago. I have been looking at 510s for a few years now, and got the go-ahead from my wife when there was one for sale nearby (baltimore/DC/Annapolis).
It needs a lot of work, but my sons are starting to get to the age where they can help out. It will be a great project car to work on with them over the next few (many?) years.

I've done lots of little mechanical things before, but nothing too intense (engine rebuild/swap, etc.), and am looking forward to getting a little more hands-on.

I've had some fun cars in the past (Beetle, MR2 turbo, etc.) that helped me gain a love for cars.

My plans: Keep the L16 in it and running while I do body work, electrical, suspension, brakes, etc. before an engine swap. I'd like to have it running so I can have some fun with it during whole rebuild process, as I'm sure this will take many years. Then I'd like to go a little bigger with something with some more power, maybe not anything too crazy. I've been pondering my engine options, I'd love to do an ecotec (or similar) but that will likely not happen. I will likely go with a supercharged ka24de (or turbo). Considering the sr20det, but haven't fully fleshed out the sr vs ka pros/cons.

What I've done: Replaced rear brake shoes/pistons. New clutch slave cylinder. Rebuilt carb (dch340), still not running right, will likely do the weber convert, but am having trouble spending $300 on that when I could probably pick up a used ka24de for not much more. Replaced fuel line/filter from filter to carb. Replaced vacuum hoses all connecting to carb. Adjusted valves, ignition gap.

The car started up after I did the above. I've driven it around the block, but that's about it. Doesn't want to start really easy, and will hesitate when I give it a bit more gas to accelerate.

Thanks for any help you guys/gals give in advance, as I'm sure I'll have questions.

Derek
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okayfine
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Re: Hello

Post by okayfine »

Hello Derek and welcome to The Realm. If you could put your location in your profile, that'll help us know where you are once you move beyond this thread.

If you've been lurking for a while, you may be aware of the tons of 510 information stored here and linked from here (like The 510 Archives). I'd suggest stocking up on various stock-based information like wiring diagrams and the "How To Keep Your Datsun Alive" book which will help with lots of stock troubleshooting and repair.

But The Realm can also help out as well.

On the future engine choice, most KAs at this point will benefit from a rebuild before use...the days of finding a minty engine an SX guy is tossing because he's upgrading to SR are pretty much over, and even the newest KA was made in '97. It just adds to the cost, is all. Not seen any S/C KAs, though there are a couple S/C builds in perpetual build status here on The Realm.

Feel free to post up some pictures.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
scheerluck
Posts: 9
Joined: 05 Sep 2016 08:27
Location: Maryland - Baltimore/DC/Annapolis

Re: Hello

Post by scheerluck »

I've been slowly working on various aspects, mostly trying to get it running and safe-enough to drive on the road.

This is how I got her.
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I could never get that DCH340 tuned right, so I ended up putting a new Weber 32/36 on it. To be honest, I'm not sure about capping off a couple of those vacuum tubes. I may ask for some advice, as there were two I capped without really knowing what they were.
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I gutted the carpet trying to clean up the interior some.

I picked up some 280zx struts/brakes. Spent a good amount of time trying to get calipers/brackets sourced. I haven't put them on yet, as I believe I'll need new rims that clear the calipers, but I'm not quite to that point yet. Plus, there's a bunch I need to do before that (replace strut oil, etc.)

I've done a bunch of other random stuff. I found out the hard way that the hood latch was not functioning at 100% capacity. Bent up the hood pretty good, and smashed up my wiper arms too. I'm just glad it didn't crack the windshield.

Tried hard to get the grill bent back in shape. It was bend up from some previous fender bender. I decided to do some slight fabrication. I was going for something similar to the Bluebird look. I like the aggressive look, without the $1000 price tag. It's still not perfectly striaght. After some paint, not the best, but it's growing on me.
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Anyway, it's slow going. But I'm making progress. With the gas leak, hood latch, brakes, and carb fixed, I took her out to the store today. It felt good :)
qwik510
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Re: Hello

Post by qwik510 »

Hello and welcome Derek,

Nice to see another 510 owner in Maryland. I remember this car from Craigslist. I believe it was in VA near Leesburg. I went and saw it. From what I remember, it looks like a good project.

I like what you did with the grill. Very unique.

I am right down the road in Silver Spring. I am the organizer for the East Coast Datsun 510 meet. We hold it every spring at Summit Point Raceway. This year will be the 21st Annual.

You should try to come. May 19-21

If you need anything, let me know. I have lots of parts here.

301-651-7788

David
Enjoy The Ride!
David
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okayfine
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Re: Hello

Post by okayfine »

Nice work with the grill. Point out the vac hoses you're not sure about and we'll try to help you out.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
scheerluck
Posts: 9
Joined: 05 Sep 2016 08:27
Location: Maryland - Baltimore/DC/Annapolis

Re: Hello

Post by scheerluck »

I'll definitely try to make the East Coast Datsun 510 meet. I may be slated for a work trip, I'll get out of it if I can.
It's nice to know you have some parts, I appreciate it and will likely be asking around if there is something I can't find.

Yeah, there is pretty slim pickin's on the East Coast. I saw this one in Leesburg, and it turned out to be in reasonable-enough shape. I've been on the fence for a while, waiting for something to show up that was close enough to see, and within my budget. Once I got the "OK" from the boss, I pulled the trigger.

The blue and red vacuum caps in the picture below, are the ones that I wasn't really sure about. Or the black tube that is hooked up, for that matter.
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I do have the vacuum advance and the valve cover tube hooked up.
To be honest, I haven't searched too hard for what those vacuum tubes are, since it started running great after I bolted it on and tuned it, it kind of fell on the back burner.

Thanks for any help,
datzenmike
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Re: Hello

Post by datzenmike »

The Blue capped line would go to the air filter snorkel and temp sensor to regulate inlet air temperature by mixing heated air from the hot exhaust manifold with outside air. It prevents carb icing on cold damp days and keeps the engine in a controlled ait temperature environment. It's like driving around in 80 degree weather even when it's 30 out. If not used it must be capped.

The red cap simply goes to the air filter to filter the air going into it so don't plug it as this is the source of the make up air going into the gas tank as it empties. The third pipe goes back to the gas tank and allows fumes out or air in as the tank empties. If you seal it the tank might collapse or the fuel pump will struggle to suck more gas out.

The long small black hose goes to the engine crank case vent tube and must be connected. This is where the gas tank fumes go to be drawn into the PCV valve and burned.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
scheerluck
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Joined: 05 Sep 2016 08:27
Location: Maryland - Baltimore/DC/Annapolis

Re: Hello

Post by scheerluck »

Thanks datzenmike for the help with the vacuum tubes. I'll get that gas tank tube hooked up as soon as I can.

Do you see any problem with removing the "throttle switch"? From what I found, it was used to reduce emissions and just switched the distributor points to retard timing at a certain throttle position.

I found this thread on the ratsun forums where you discuss it on a 521, but it doesn't quite look the same.
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Byron510
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Re: Hello

Post by Byron510 »

I'll put in two cents worth on the plugging off of the fuel vent lines back to the tank. If all are blocked or plugged, make sure you have a vented cap on the tank. Failure to have a vent somewhere in the system will likely cost you a fuel tank! I know from personal experience. I completely imploded a fuel tank on a wagon when I inadvertently replaced replaced a vented fuel cap with a nicely custom machined by me non vented cap when I had all the emissions lines blocked off. It took all of a 25 minute Hwy commute and a stock Nissan EFI fuel pump. When it was over in the driveway, leaking all over the place, the tank looked like it had been driven over by a large truck. Hard way to learn, so I'm passing on my experience - keep that tank vented in some way :-)

Byron
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because the opposite never works.
scheerluck
Posts: 9
Joined: 05 Sep 2016 08:27
Location: Maryland - Baltimore/DC/Annapolis

Re: Hello

Post by scheerluck »

Thanks for the tips.

I've made a little more progress on the 510, but I end up with more projects that need to be done on the car than I get completed.

I finally got around to replacing the e-brake cable in the back, so I don't have to carry around a block of wood in the car.

My gas cap is leaking too, and I can't seem to find the right size anywhere. I ended up replacing the rubber gasket around the cap, but it is still leaking a bit.

I got the dash all put back together after replacing the bulbs with LEDs. I'm not that happy with it. I went cheap with the bulbs, and didn't replace them all with 360 degree bulbs. So I'll probably end up doing that again. On the flip side, the blinker lights shine so bright I have to squint before it burns my retinas, so I'll probably take those down a notch.

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I put the radio back in, after jimmy-rigging a speaker in place, come to find out the radio doesn't work. Oh well.

I worked on a few dents on the body. And I'm pretty sure I made some of them worse. I did end up getting this bad one on the front quarter panel pretty straight. It had huge amounts of body filler in it. The panel is not fully ready yet, as there's still some rust near the door jam that need to be fixed. But it's looking better.

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I spent some time grinding the rust off of the front bumper (hint: orbital sander is NOT the way to go if you are also trying to get the chrome off the bumper), after trying hard to get it back in shape. My welding / body work skills are definitely lacking. But it looks better than it did, after a few coats of paint. Don't look too close though.

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I also went to a pick and pull and grabbed some new seats from a Honda Accord. Still test fitting the first one, but almost have it. Took some grinding, and drilling a new hole in the bracket, but nothing too major. I also picked up a couple of retractable seat-belts that I may be able to modify. They were cheap, so I felt I could gamble on it.

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I saw some Subarus there too, didn't have too much time. I need to find out what the r180 came in, so I can attempt to grab one next time.

Same with the 5-speed. I saw a handful and datsuns, I need to see if I can find a 5 speed. I'd like to make it to the East Coast Datsun meet in May, but I'm not sure I feel that comfortable with this thing screaming for an hour and a half each way.
Last edited by scheerluck on 16 Apr 2017 16:11, edited 1 time in total.
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okayfine
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Re: Hello

Post by okayfine »

scheerluck wrote:My gas cap is leaking too, and I can't seem to find the right size anywhere. I ended up replacing the rubber gasket around the cap, but it is still leaking a bit.
Someone will have a factory gas cap, and those fit best. The lockable aftermarket ones never seemed to seal well, as they were "universal fit." Also, look over the metal flange that attaches to the body to ensure the mating surface is flat - these get bent all the time because they're thin. Also, you may just have a leaky rubber flange on the piece that is sandwiched by the metal flange and the body, this connects to your filler tube. These are notorious for rotting.
scheerluck wrote:I spent some time grinding the rust off of the front bumper (hint: orbital sander is NOT the way to go if you are also trying to get the chrome off the bumper), after trying hard to get it back in shape. My welding / body work skills are definitely lacking. But it looks better than it did, after a few coats of paint. Don't look too close though.
Bumper looks good from the West Coast.
scheerluck wrote:I saw some Subarus there too, didn't have too much time. I need to find out what the r180 came in, so I can attempt to grab one next time.
'Kinda R180? If you're looking for a limited-slip Subaru diff in R180, you're looking at STIs, which I'd assume won't be in a pick-n-pull. Lots of diff options out there, depending on your ability to fab and your power goals. More than a few solutions documented in the old DQ.
scheerluck wrote:Same with the 5-speed. I saw a handful and datsuns, I need to see if I can find a 5 speed. I'd like to make it to the East Coast Datsun meet in May, but I'm not sure I feel that comfortable with this thing screaming for an hour and a half each way.
Some of the East Coast guys will read this and tell you about Dave Patten driving his GT3 race car down to Summit Point from New England.

Also, L-series engines are perfectly happy reving. Most of us here have done thousands and thousands of miles at 4K, no matter how many gears we had in the box. Engine's a lot happier at a constant 4K than reving up and down the band all day.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
qwik510
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Re: Hello

Post by qwik510 »

I'm pretty sure I have a gas cap for you in one of my many boxes. I'll look this week.

Car is looking good. Glad to see you are giving it some love.
Enjoy The Ride!
David
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Three B's Racing
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Re: Hello

Post by Three B's Racing »

Some of the East Coast guys will read this and tell you about Dave Patten driving his GT3 race car down to Summit Point from New England.

Also, L-series engines are perfectly happy reving. Most of us here have done thousands and thousands of miles at 4K, no matter how many gears we had in the box. Engine's a lot happier at a constant 4K than reving up and down the band all day.[/quote]

Welcome welcome welcome,,,it wasn't his GT3 race car, it was his GTL with all road legal stickers and a 4-speed with 3:90 differential. His GT3 wouldn't have made it past the first Mass State Trooper we encountered at the Mass Pike tolls because there's nothing street legal abut his GT3 8>)

The surrounding sheet metal between the gas caps mating plate and rubber filler hose is likely all wavey gravy and the rubber hard and squished thin and no longer plyable. I'd pull it all off and straighten up the sheet metal as much as you can then make a gasket of fuel proof rubber to go between the gas caps mating plate and the existing rubber filler hose thickening up that area that will seal against that not perfect sheet metal. I did this years ago and no leaks. Just don't use the original sheet metal screws, use a bolt, nylock nut and good sized sturdy washers or do the conversion like Julian did in his 510 using a 240SX filler tube and venting gas cap. It's on one of the Dime Quarterly issues. I'm sure Julian will let you know which one, I don't.
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scheerluck
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Re: Hello

Post by scheerluck »

okayfine wrote:'Kinda R180?
I haven't done enough research into this, yet. But I have noticed many people mention the R180, so I assumed the was the one to get. I won't be needing anything for a while, but thought if they were there at the pick-and-pull I might grab one. Since they will likely only be in STIs, I don't imagine I'd find one.

Ultimately, I am going to do some kind of engine swap. It probably will not be for a few years, while I work on other stuff. Since this l16 is working fine, I figure I can drive and have fun while I slowly do the other work. I'm trying to have my kids help out with things here and there to teach them some mechanical skills. Power-wise, I'm not sure what my goals are yet. I'd "like" to get 300 to the wheels, but that is not a hard rule for me. A supercharged KA looks really nice, even at ~240 WHP. I do prefer torque over HP, so I am really keeping an eye on a few swaps.

If everything was awesome, I'd do these:
2.3 ecoboost from Ford Mustang

2.0 LTG from GM
twin scroll turbo spools up FAST, 260 lb-ft at 1700 rpm!!

Long story short, at some point I'd like a limited slip that could hold up to 300 WHP and a good amount of torque. But that is a while away, and I haven't looked into it all that much yet.
Three B's Racing wrote:The surrounding sheet metal between the gas caps mating plate and rubber filler hose is likely all wavey gravy and the rubber hard and squished thin and no longer plyable. I'd pull it all off and straighten up the sheet metal as much as you can then make a gasket of fuel proof rubber to go between the gas caps mating plate and the existing rubber filler hose thickening up that area that will seal against that not perfect sheet metal.
I hadn't considered the leak may be coming from there too, thanks. I noticed the crusty gas cap rubber and just focused on that.
qwik510 wrote:I'm pretty sure I have a gas cap for you in one of my many boxes
That would be awesome. If you find one let me know, and we can figure out payment options/etc.

This is what mine (on the left) looked like after pulling out the old rubber. All the new caps I find at auto stores have a smaller diameter insert-thingy.
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okayfine
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Re: Hello

Post by okayfine »

300WHP is fairly rare for a 510. Even a stock KA with 145WHP makes for a quick 510, and you've got to boost an SR quite a ways to get to your goal. No info on the Ford, the Ecotec has been swapped in a 510 here on The Realm. Check the projects forum.

For your goal power levels, R200CLSD would probably be the way to go. Either R180 or R200 in LSD will be spendy, but then you're going to be spending a LOT just to get the 510's suspension to work with 300WHP. STIs are 300CHP and use an R180, but half-ish of the power goes to the back in one of those, so it's not that cut-and-dried.

Page through the various builds in Featured Projects, there's some high-HP cars and you can read through the supporting mods.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
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