Byron510 wrote:The Saturn option is no doubt cheap and plentiful, but where would you put that PS unit on a rear steer 510?
Byron, no reason you can't tuck it under the dash from what I see. It seems agnostic to its position along the column.
Possibly, but from those photos the unit looks large, and there isn't much room under the gauge cluster and above the pedal box in a 510 - in fact the gauge cluster pretty much sits on top of the column. Below that, your pedals are right there. The unit Rich installed in his coupe was less than 1/4 the size. Maybe it would work, something to look into for sure.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
Byron510 wrote:The Saturn option is no doubt cheap and plentiful, but where would you put that PS unit on a rear steer 510?
Byron, no reason you can't tuck it under the dash from what I see. It seems agnostic to its position along the column.
Possibly, but from those photos the unit looks large, and there isn't much room under the gauge cluster and above the pedal box in a 510 - in fact the gauge cluster pretty much sits on top of the column. Below that, your pedals are right there. The unit Rich installed in his coupe was less than 1/4 the size. Maybe it would work, something to look into for sure.
Byron
That's a good point, it's been a while since I had a dash in my 510.
We have a new version of the crossmember that now allows it to be right, left, power or manual by just swapping custom bushing we make. We have a few in stock and are making more.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
Very well done! Looks awesome. I may be biased, but I think this is superior to the MR2 rack because of the availability of ratios and the ability to buy a brand new rack.
Very well done! Looks awesome. I may be biased, but I think this is superior to the MR2 rack because of the availability of ratios and the ability to buy a brand new rack.
Yeah the brand new part is great. The crazy part is pivot to pivot its exactly the same as a MR2 rack. If buy the heavy duty version they are almost the same size. Although it seemed so easy to fit everything had to change a little bit. That's why it took so long.
Duke I thought of a way to get 13" wheels on your car. You can adjust your bump steer using the spherical bearing under your strut (where the old ball joint was) instead of spacing the out tie rod. The only worry is that it may need to be spaced the way you can't go. I tried to go back and look at photos to see but the one I need doesn't show up.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
This is so awesome. I can't express how much I appreciate the amount of work you guys have done to help out the 510 community.
I've already started saving up to buy one of these.
Question: I looked on the website. Is there going to be aan option where I can just click and get everything necessary in one package?
Thanks again,
Brock
Rear Wheel Drive, The way God Intended.
If a car is being pulled from the front, doesn't that mean it's being towed?
datsuntech wrote:This is so awesome. I can't express how much I appreciate the amount of work you guys have done to help out the 510 community.
I've already started saving up to buy one of these.
Question: I looked on the website. Is there going to be aan option where I can just click and get everything necessary in one package?
Thanks again,
Brock
Yep! Be able to get it all minus LCA and TC rods which one day we will have. We are working on a sway bar. Almost got it sorted. It's been a long long road. Most guys know I love SUPER LOW 510's so are stuff has to work on them. The sway bar has been quite the pickle. We have settle on a weld in splined NASCAR style bar that will mount under the core support frame rail. The cool part is it will be super tunable with different diameters and will work with any motor at any ride height.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
Even more awesome! I'm not really into super low, but the fact that you can is always a plus.
Is there a estimated timetable for the LCAs and TC rods?
Can this work with stock LCAs and TC rods and then be changed over later?
If not going low would a standard front sump swaybar work?
Brock
Rear Wheel Drive, The way God Intended.
If a car is being pulled from the front, doesn't that mean it's being towed?
Any TC rod and lower control arm can be made to work. Some aren't a gimmy though. Sam used stock TC rods, he cut two inches out, then sleeved them and welded them back together. He wanted mega caster haha. The only sway bar I know that works is the old DGR fab bar, the datsport might but I'm not sure about that one. The orange line bar goes to far back.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
icehouse wrote:
Duke I thought of a way to get 13" wheels on your car. You can adjust your bump steer using the spherical bearing under your strut (where the old ball joint was) instead of spacing the out tie rod. The only worry is that it may need to be spaced the way you can't go. I tried to go back and look at photos to see but the one I need doesn't show up.
Interesting thought. It would be a compromise though in that it would lower the front roll center. I've got a few events left in the 15" race tires that I have, but when they are nearing the end of their life, I might have to take another look at what I would have to do to get the 13's to fit. They are really light!