Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
I replaced all 44 receiver cups today, 11 per door. They fit perfectly. The new clips will be a tight and rattle free fit.
Removing the old rock hard ones was easy once you hit them with a small butane mini-torch for 1.47 seconds.... The paint around them melts at 1.48 seconds...
Removing the old rock hard ones was easy once you hit them with a small butane mini-torch for 1.47 seconds.... The paint around them melts at 1.48 seconds...
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
And in other news, the planning and execution of three point modern seat belts for both front and rear seats, culminated today with a successful install.
I followed the concept that Datsport uses for the belt set they have, and them chose belts from Seat Belt Planet that fill the bill. There are two bits of fabrication that are required, which I will detail later, but the gist is that the front requires a second bolt hole just behind the original on the outer sill down by the floor, and the rear requires a custom bracket to rotate the shoulder belt mount hole from its stock vertical position to horizontal out on the parcel shelf.
You also get the first public glimpse of the interior color scheme and the fancy door welting/weatherstripping.
I'll add pics of the front belts and how they mount tomorrow.
I followed the concept that Datsport uses for the belt set they have, and them chose belts from Seat Belt Planet that fill the bill. There are two bits of fabrication that are required, which I will detail later, but the gist is that the front requires a second bolt hole just behind the original on the outer sill down by the floor, and the rear requires a custom bracket to rotate the shoulder belt mount hole from its stock vertical position to horizontal out on the parcel shelf.
You also get the first public glimpse of the interior color scheme and the fancy door welting/weatherstripping.
I'll add pics of the front belts and how they mount tomorrow.
- SteveEdmonton
- Supporter
- Posts: 580
- Joined: 27 Aug 2010 13:20
- Location: Edmonton, AB
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
Hey Jim, neat project. I'm archiving the photos in case I want to add the same kind of defroster to my car too. It'll be interesting to hear how well it works.zKars wrote:Finally, today mounted a new defrost grid on the rear window. I went with "Frost Fighter". Went on real well. Well made. Very glad I had the thing out. Would be a real challenge from the back seat.
IMG_2480.JPG (289.01 KiB) Viewed 204 times
I note too the "510 Realm" decal across the top of the rear window. (Can't seem to copy / quote that photo here, unfortunately-- but you know what I'm referring to.) Is that a one-off special or are they available from somebody here? It's a nice touch.
'71 4-door
'74 MGB-GT
'04 Miata
'74 MGB-GT
'04 Miata
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
The 510realm decal came with the car. I wanted to keep it in place of course! No telling how long its been on there.
Maybe one of the longer term members here can say if there are any still available and who has the keys to the castle?
Maybe one of the longer term members here can say if there are any still available and who has the keys to the castle?
- bertvorgon
- Supporter
- Posts: 11996
- Joined: 04 Aug 2003 20:45
- Location: White Rock, B.C. Canada
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
I'm pretty sure I have a few of those 510Realm decals left.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
Progress report, car date 20161230 or something...
Been working on getting the exhaust mocked up. I bought a set of aluminized steel 2.5" mandrel bends from mandrel bends.com and got to work making the exhaust. On the floor; with the car on jack stands; in the shop, where it's cold. Fun.... Doing it with pie cuts and straight pieces, MIG tacked under the car as I fit it up, then TIG'ed to finish on the bench. Using V-bands and a flex section, much like fun with Monkeys setup.
Anyway, one real handy product I've always wanted to use for type of job are these great pipe alignment clamps from iceengineworks;
However their cost is a bit crazy ($100 US for a set of 4), so I made my own. Not pretty but totally functional. No comments about the TIG'ing please...
Two hose clamps, two small L brackets, random bit of copper strap to join the L brackets a pair of 5mm bolt/nut, etc.
The coolest part was the 1/4-28 castle nut tig'ed to the clamp through which a wire passes through the castle sticky-uppy things (downy in this case) that gets locked with a bolt to mimic the slotted bracket on the iceengineworks clamp. The "best" part was TIG'ing a piece of SS tig filler wire to use as the adjustable length wire to the clamp band without melting it. 5 amps was almost too much.
Anyway, they work well and made the under car fit up and tacking much easier.
Been working on getting the exhaust mocked up. I bought a set of aluminized steel 2.5" mandrel bends from mandrel bends.com and got to work making the exhaust. On the floor; with the car on jack stands; in the shop, where it's cold. Fun.... Doing it with pie cuts and straight pieces, MIG tacked under the car as I fit it up, then TIG'ed to finish on the bench. Using V-bands and a flex section, much like fun with Monkeys setup.
Anyway, one real handy product I've always wanted to use for type of job are these great pipe alignment clamps from iceengineworks;
However their cost is a bit crazy ($100 US for a set of 4), so I made my own. Not pretty but totally functional. No comments about the TIG'ing please...
Two hose clamps, two small L brackets, random bit of copper strap to join the L brackets a pair of 5mm bolt/nut, etc.
The coolest part was the 1/4-28 castle nut tig'ed to the clamp through which a wire passes through the castle sticky-uppy things (downy in this case) that gets locked with a bolt to mimic the slotted bracket on the iceengineworks clamp. The "best" part was TIG'ing a piece of SS tig filler wire to use as the adjustable length wire to the clamp band without melting it. 5 amps was almost too much.
Anyway, they work well and made the under car fit up and tacking much easier.
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
Here's a couple of shots of the exhaust mocked up underneath.
Like my fancy muffler jacks? Simple 3/4" iron pipe fittings with 3/4" nut welded to a coupler and 3/4" rod for adjusting. Just choose the length of black pipe knipple you need to get the height close, then thread out the rod. Mr. Cheapskate again...
Dang there is NO room for any kind of decent resonator under these dang things! What have other's done to keep the noise down other than going with a quiet muffler?
Used a Magnaflow 14236 SS 2.5"" muffler. Fits perfect. Its a 8.5 x 14 body, 20 total length, offset/offset in/out. As you can see the body opening was enlarged. Have some trim work to do around it.No biggy.Like my fancy muffler jacks? Simple 3/4" iron pipe fittings with 3/4" nut welded to a coupler and 3/4" rod for adjusting. Just choose the length of black pipe knipple you need to get the height close, then thread out the rod. Mr. Cheapskate again...
Dang there is NO room for any kind of decent resonator under these dang things! What have other's done to keep the noise down other than going with a quiet muffler?
Last edited by zKars on 30 Dec 2016 07:16, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
I like the muffler stand great idea
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
-
- Supporter
- Posts: 775
- Joined: 12 Sep 2004 19:42
- Location: Abbotsford B.C.
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
Like the saying goes "necessity is the mother of invention. Nice work!
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
RMS wrote:
Haha, classic response!
- two_68_510s
- Supporter
- Posts: 3894
- Joined: 18 Apr 2010 11:20
- Location: Ben Lomond California
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
COOL trick with the clamps, I will build one for me. System looks good and nice tight fitment.
Joel
2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal
2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
Haha with the ear plugs. I'd expect that response from most of you. I love the sound of a nice throaty L series better than any stereo, it's just that after 8 hours of it, it gets a bit much, and my usual passengers are known whiners about the noise level in my builds so a certain amount of comprimise is important. Might have to have two mufflers set up to quickly swap in depending on the projected usage on any given day. Love those v-band clamps....
Now out to the garage to practice my tig'ing on the remaining pipe scraps before I do all the real exhaust joints. Got a new TIG machine for Xmas and have to get used to it. Bought a Everlast 250EX. Great quality machine, half the price of the equivalent Miller box. Don't buy an Eastwood TIG200, died after 2 years and a lousy 30 hours of use..... Got what I paid for. Again....
Now out to the garage to practice my tig'ing on the remaining pipe scraps before I do all the real exhaust joints. Got a new TIG machine for Xmas and have to get used to it. Bought a Everlast 250EX. Great quality machine, half the price of the equivalent Miller box. Don't buy an Eastwood TIG200, died after 2 years and a lousy 30 hours of use..... Got what I paid for. Again....
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
your new seals will help dampen down the noise. I was surprised at how quiet they get with new door seals and window felts. stuffing foam or insulation in the rear seat base and back helps with the fatiguing droning decibels.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
- bertvorgon
- Supporter
- Posts: 11996
- Joined: 04 Aug 2003 20:45
- Location: White Rock, B.C. Canada
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
I have worn ear plugs for some 26 years now when driving the 510 as would a passenger when riding with me. Even after a full 12 hour day of driving, those ear plugs just take the edge off everything and to the positive, actually let you hear MORE of the cool sounds, with out being intrusive. If your passenger wears them, then you both will speak at the same level.
I use the older 29 db noise reduction ones, personal preference, as I can use then though a days trip, where they are in and out every time we stop, and still retain their ability to re-fill the ear channel when put back in.
I put the same sort of "muffler" on the back of mine finally a few years ago. It took some of the bark out of the exhaust, I did it more for anti-police issues more than anything. Biggest thing for me in my car was getting rid of me Lexan windows, where now with glass again and a tight wind seal on the door felts, I got rid of a lot of wind noise and air pulsing in the car, which also affects your hearing.
Also, get a riding mechanic to come along and listening for any rattles and panels, etc that may be rattling and vibrating. You would be amazed at how much noise can be eliminated by attending to that. I had a bad rattle that was driving me CRAZY, turned out it was the fire extinguisher pin hitting my switch box down beside me. A twist of the extinguisher and a piece of tubing on the chain fixed that!
I use the older 29 db noise reduction ones, personal preference, as I can use then though a days trip, where they are in and out every time we stop, and still retain their ability to re-fill the ear channel when put back in.
I put the same sort of "muffler" on the back of mine finally a few years ago. It took some of the bark out of the exhaust, I did it more for anti-police issues more than anything. Biggest thing for me in my car was getting rid of me Lexan windows, where now with glass again and a tight wind seal on the door felts, I got rid of a lot of wind noise and air pulsing in the car, which also affects your hearing.
Also, get a riding mechanic to come along and listening for any rattles and panels, etc that may be rattling and vibrating. You would be amazed at how much noise can be eliminated by attending to that. I had a bad rattle that was driving me CRAZY, turned out it was the fire extinguisher pin hitting my switch box down beside me. A twist of the extinguisher and a piece of tubing on the chain fixed that!
Last edited by bertvorgon on 30 Dec 2016 08:39, edited 1 time in total.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.
I played with those clamps at SEMA, very nicey made, pretty thick material, but the price, like you said high. If your making exhausts and headers for a living, their cheap. They showed them mostly for making headers, where you can remove the complete header for tigging (great idea). I like your copy!