Noob build

[Tank510]

So after a week of painful head scratching it FINALLY RUNS! Only for five seconds, then it dies, but that'll be dealt with later. A couple of problems I had:

1. Engine came without Ignition module - didn't realize it and when I sourced one I had spark.
2. Wiring diagram I used had the ECU BUP and ECU LSS ports backwards.
3. Forgot to terminate the starter wire to the ECU

Everything else went well. I bought a fuel pressure gauge to put in permanently and depending on what is causing it to die after 5 seconds I'll just get to spend more money. I'm thinking bad idle air control or fuel pressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2Ldtkr ... e=youtu.be

Below are the two reference diagrams for the KA24 CanAm Box, you can see the mixup.

Correct:

CANAM box wiring diagram.jpg (69.75 KiB) Viewed 1610 times

Incorrect (ECU BUP and ECU LSS are switched):

KA simplified.jpg (64.3 KiB) Viewed 1610 times

Next up is to fix the idle, then do an exhaust which will be a huge job, finish the last brake line, bolt up drive and half shafts until I can finally get onto permanent wiring and interior work

[SteveEdmonton]

I'm enjoying your thread-- but thinking it would be more appropriate to shift it to the "projects build" section. I'd never think of looking for anything like this level of detail, or ongoing progress reports, in this new-member section.

I realize this is a moderator's decision, not yours, Tank. But does the suggestion have enough traction to have one of our administrators move it over there?

[Tank510]

I'm enjoying your thread-- but thinking it would be more appropriate to shift it to the "projects build" section. I'd never think of looking for anything like this level of detail, or ongoing progress reports, in this new-member section.

I realize this is a moderator's decision, not yours, Tank. But does the suggestion have enough traction to have one of our administrators move it over there?

No doubt, I didn't realize this until I was on page 2 or so. I'll ask Byron to move it over.

[indy510]

Try disconnecting the MAF plug ... my KA24DE was dying after 5 seconds, but would run longer with the MAF unplugged (not drivable or running good)

A new used ECU for $40 off ebay fixed it ... I think they call it "limp mode" when the ECU dies. Mine had gotten moisture inside.

[Tank510]

Try disconnecting the MAF plug ... my KA24DE was dying after 5 seconds, but would run longer with the MAF unplugged (not drivable or running good)

A new used ECU for $40 off ebay fixed it ... I think they call it "limp mode" when the ECU dies. Mine had gotten moisture inside.

Will try that asap, thank you

[Tank510]

Well it's been a distracted week of headaches, some shitty tenants destroyed my condo. Didn't feel like digging into it too hard, assembled the lights to the headlight buckets. Had to use hotglue to mount them as the aftermarket slots don't line up with the factory 510 ones. Turned out all right, can't wait to mount them.

Anybody on the west coast know where to get chrome plating done at a reasonable rate? I'm thinking grille, headlight trim, both bumpers and misc other pieces will need it.

73.jpg (221.95 KiB) Viewed 1570 times

[Tank510]

Try disconnecting the MAF plug ... my KA24DE was dying after 5 seconds, but would run longer with the MAF unplugged (not drivable or running good)

A new used ECU for $40 off ebay fixed it ... I think they call it "limp mode" when the ECU dies. Mine had gotten moisture inside.

As recommended, disconnected the MAF plug and it runs like a bag, but it runs longer than 5 sec. Just like yours... Anyways, I have a spare motor and spare ECU with the exact same numbers on it, so I plugged it in and the same problem occurs.

Now that the girlfriends father is back on a plane home, I'm going to figure out the codes it putting out and go from there, since I don't think both ECU's are bad. However, I tried both when they were wired wrong so who knows. I read in another forum that it takes 50 cranks of the starter to clear any stored codes. From what I know I plugged in the ECU and powered it up prior to having connected all the sensor wiring, so it might have stored codes that haven't cleared by themselves. Anyways, will post updates. I'll also unscrew the top and look inside it to see if there is anything obviously corroded.

[Tank510]

Try disconnecting the MAF plug ... my KA24DE was dying after 5 seconds, but would run longer with the MAF unplugged (not drivable or running good)

A new used ECU for $40 off ebay fixed it ... I think they call it "limp mode" when the ECU dies. Mine had gotten moisture inside.

I went to read the error codes last night and it gave me an all clear, or code 55. Seems weird to me that both ECU's don't throw codes and the motor dies after five seconds, guess all that's left is to keep my eye open for a used one.

[indy510]

You don't have a spare MAF? ... I tried that with mine, before I figured out it was the ECU ... do you have the IACV hose hooked up to the intake?

You can also check the 3 wires going to the MAF, to make sure you have 12V, a ground, and a signal wire that moves a fraction of a volt when you lightly blow into the MAF

[Tank510]

You don't have a spare MAF? ... I tried that with mine, before I figured out it was the ECU ... do you have the IACV hose hooked up to the intake?

You can also check the 3 wires going to the MAF, to make sure you have 12V, a ground, and a signal wire that moves a fraction of a volt when you lightly blow into the MAF

I do have a spare MAF, will have to dig it up. It's just confusing to me that it would stop working, since I saw the engine run with that exact MAF about 6 months ago. I'll definitely try the spare and report back.

IACV hose is hooked up, tees in upstream of the MAF and goes to the tube next to the throttle body. The tube and vacuum lines looked good, but I will check those again.

[Tank510]

You don't have a spare MAF? ... I tried that with mine, before I figured out it was the ECU ... do you have the IACV hose hooked up to the intake?

You can also check the 3 wires going to the MAF, to make sure you have 12V, a ground, and a signal wire that moves a fraction of a volt when you lightly blow into the MAF

Checked the "spare" MAF, has a different connector and numbers on it so I didn't trust it. I checked the MAF, it has 12V and ground, sits at 0.33V with no flow and when I blow through it lightly changes to around 1V. Looks to be operating fine, I'll check it this weekend when I idle the car again. Didn't want to run the car last night, that would have meant opening the doors and it was freaking cold.

Also, did you connect your vehicle speed sensor from the trans to the ECU?

[indy510]

No, I don't have any wires from the trans to the ECU ... your MAF sounds like it's working normally

[Tank510]

No, I don't have any wires from the trans to the ECU ... your MAF sounds like it's working normally

Can you do me a favor and pull the cover off your ECU and see if you have this blue shit on it? Think this might be the problem... it's on both of them.

74.jpg (271.25 KiB) Viewed 1440 times

[Tank510]

After consulting my electrical engineer buddy who googled "blue shit on circuit board" - where the overwhelming favorite answer was a blown capacitor, I bought a new ECU... fingers crossed.

Spent a bit of time this weekend fabbing up some brackets for the coil pack, which I placed at the old power steering pump location, and my rad overflow tank. Nothing special, just used up some old steel. Once I get the thing running the rad will be pulled and the mounts for the two 10" fans will be welded up, after that it can all go back together.

75.JPG (110.64 KiB) Viewed 1420 times

76.JPG (129.66 KiB) Viewed 1420 times

Also took the heater apart, to nobodies surprise the heater valve was stuck. Have the guys at the Z shop trying to locate some parts for that and misc other stuff. The heater core looks solid though, it did have some water in it so I'll pressure test it before I'll have it leak all over the place.

Next up, currently the longer header is installed, it was a bit of work to fit it around the steering box. Now the outlet sits about 3" lower than the car and I'd have to cut it again, turn the corner and re-weld. It's tough to get the TIG torch in there and I can't see it working out too well if I start cutting like a madman. The consensus is the longer headers have better performance gains and that the shorties wont' be much better than a stock exhaust manifold... Any suggestions?

Header 1.JPG (34.51 KiB) Viewed 1420 times

Header 2.JPG (52.61 KiB) Viewed 1420 times

[icehouse]

So after a week of painful head scratching it FINALLY RUNS! Only for five seconds, then it dies, but that'll be dealt with later. A couple of problems I had:

1. Engine came without Ignition module - didn't realize it and when I sourced one I had spark.
2. Wiring diagram I used had the ECU BUP and ECU LSS ports backwards.
3. Forgot to terminate the starter wire to the ECU

Everything else went well. I bought a fuel pressure gauge to put in permanently and depending on what is causing it to die after 5 seconds I'll just get to spend more money. I'm thinking bad idle air control or fuel pressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2Ldtkr ... e=youtu.be

Below are the two reference diagrams for the KA24 CanAm Box, you can see the mixup.

Correct:

CANAM box wiring diagram.jpg

Incorrect (ECU BUP and ECU LSS are switched):

KA simplified.jpg

Next up is to fix the idle, then do an exhaust which will be a huge job, finish the last brake line, bolt up drive and half shafts until I can finally get onto permanent wiring and interior work

Who did the second diagram that's wrong? I've never seen that before.