You could first start by shortening the endlinks to gain some clearance at the subframe. Also if you are not running roll center spacers, that will help the whole situation. As far as the tension rod touching the swaybar, you might want to lower the tension rod pickup. Not only will that reduce the anti-dive in the front suspension, but it will also give you the clearance you need for the tension rod.funwithmonkeys wrote:There are a couple of issues. I just got my struts shortened and before I did the swaybar was making contact with the crossmember at full compression about the same time I hit the bump stops.
At the same time it is almost coming in contact with the T/C rods.
I really like the Futofab sway bar but I am for sure going to need something different. If I just lower the bar the center section of it will be more than 3" below my crossmember and the lowest point on the car by a lot. I am going to remove it later this week and see if I can flip it and make it work but I think it would mean standoffs that are approximately 4" and would put the mounts of the bar lower than my crossmember. Also at the lowest point of the car. I am pretty sure getting a custom one made will be the way to go.
Gordy's ecotec 510
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Re: Gordy's ecotec 510
Beer... The cause of, and solution to, all of lives problems- Homer Simpson
Re: Gordy's ecotec 510
funwithmonkeys wrote:
I had the same issue. I remounted my TC rod under the LCA with an aluminum spacer about an inch thick. Now my suspension bottoms out before it hits. Just barely though. I have the super tall bump steer spacers as well.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
- funwithmonkeys
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Re: Gordy's ecotec 510
I never thought of getting the tension rod front mounting lowered. I am running 1" bump steer spacers. Shortening the end links just gets me closer to the tension rods.I am going to put the struts on tomorrow and see exactly what I need for it to work. Bigger bump steer spacers would help but they would probably need to be 2". I am thinking of going to a modular sway bar with splines for the arms to attach. I could build just what I need.
If no one from the future comes back to stop you from doing it then how bad of a decision can it really be?
Re: Gordy's ecotec 510
You'll see that I had to drill an access hole right though my stanchion for mounting it in the stock 510 sway bar mount holes. Pics say it all. The Mac Tilton ones were not built like this, and it was nearly impossible to get the bolts on. Not to mention that those said bolts were too short for proper engagement in the captive nut. So, being a machinist I had to make it better - which I think I succeeded in doing.
For your possible strait bar set up, you'll likely need to build something like this to clear the oil pan. At least i did the hard work for you The design is done.
Byron
For your possible strait bar set up, you'll likely need to build something like this to clear the oil pan. At least i did the hard work for you The design is done.
Byron
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Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
- funwithmonkeys
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Re: Gordy's ecotec 510
If you feel like making another set Byron let me know.
If no one from the future comes back to stop you from doing it then how bad of a decision can it really be?
- bertvorgon
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Re: Gordy's ecotec 510
For what it is worth, this is how I did mine, and I did move the T/C mounting point also.
Custom bent sway bar too.
Custom bent sway bar too.
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"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
- funwithmonkeys
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Re: Gordy's ecotec 510
Are your mounting points moved up Keith? I think that moving them is a bit beyond my level of skill.
If no one from the future comes back to stop you from doing it then how bad of a decision can it really be?