Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
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Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
As current is the same anywhere in a circuit, being ahead of the coil or after may not matter... BUT it must be in line.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
I do recall though reason of deduction that this inductive pick up won't work in line on the negative side from the coil on the way to the distributor.datzenmike wrote:As current is the same anywhere in a circuit, being ahead of the coil or after may not matter... BUT it must be in line.
I am not an electronics guy, but I do know that the sensor wire around the inductive pick up coil on the 510 factory tach only works on the (+) side before the coil.
And I believe it is polarized - in other words it works better in one direction better than the other - kind of like the inductive pick up for your timing light that clamps on your #1 plug wire.
Hope that helps.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
There were two different tachs.
Early tach with 4 wires and later one with 3 wires. Which one do you have?
Check out this article that was on the DQ written by the late, great Randy York.
http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2011/ ... meter.html
" Early 510 Tachometers
The white needle and early orange needle tachs use an inductive pickup to detect the signal. These have two white wires that are connected in series with the coil. They should be wired as follows:
· Black wire to ground
· Green wire to +12 V
· Two white wires in series to the negative side of the coil. If it does not work try reversing the two white wires.
Late 510 Tachometers
The late orange needle tachs use a single wire that connects in parallel to the coil. These tachs have a single circuit board with more modern electronics, just like the late model circuit boards we are using here for the upgrade/repair. They should be wired as follows:
· Black to ground
· Green to +12
· Black with green stripe to negative side of coil. "
Early tach with 4 wires and later one with 3 wires. Which one do you have?
Check out this article that was on the DQ written by the late, great Randy York.
http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2011/ ... meter.html
" Early 510 Tachometers
The white needle and early orange needle tachs use an inductive pickup to detect the signal. These have two white wires that are connected in series with the coil. They should be wired as follows:
· Black wire to ground
· Green wire to +12 V
· Two white wires in series to the negative side of the coil. If it does not work try reversing the two white wires.
Late 510 Tachometers
The late orange needle tachs use a single wire that connects in parallel to the coil. These tachs have a single circuit board with more modern electronics, just like the late model circuit boards we are using here for the upgrade/repair. They should be wired as follows:
· Black to ground
· Green to +12
· Black with green stripe to negative side of coil. "
Enjoy The Ride!
David
David
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- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
Hey Guys -
Thanks for posting this Qwik510 as that is the article that I based all my work on - and it says negative side. But Byron's post and a couple others clearly say positive... SOOOOO, I am going to try + tomorrow and see what happens. I definitely have the 4 wire tach - with the two white wires. It is an early orange needle.
I will post results tomorrow to clarify what I end up with!
Thanks for all the input guys!
dw
Thanks for posting this Qwik510 as that is the article that I based all my work on - and it says negative side. But Byron's post and a couple others clearly say positive... SOOOOO, I am going to try + tomorrow and see what happens. I definitely have the 4 wire tach - with the two white wires. It is an early orange needle.
I will post results tomorrow to clarify what I end up with!
Thanks for all the input guys!
dw
David Wilson
67.5 SRL311 #00050
67.5 SRL311 #544
68 SPL/SRL311 Racecar project
69 SRL311
69 SRL311
71 510 Sedan - L20B w/SU's and 280ZX 5 spd
72 510 Sedan - L18 w/Webers and Dogleg 5 spd
74 260Z - L26 w/ Triple Webers and 280ZX 5 spd
89 Toyota HiAce
67.5 SRL311 #00050
67.5 SRL311 #544
68 SPL/SRL311 Racecar project
69 SRL311
69 SRL311
71 510 Sedan - L20B w/SU's and 280ZX 5 spd
72 510 Sedan - L18 w/Webers and Dogleg 5 spd
74 260Z - L26 w/ Triple Webers and 280ZX 5 spd
89 Toyota HiAce
Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
Dave, did you find a solution?
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Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
?
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: 01 Mar 2017 21:52
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
Mission Accomplished!
Finally got back around to the Tach install after having the car parked all winter!
After re-reading all the instructions on this thread and staring forever at the wiring diagram, I decided that my effort to cut into the wiring inside the cabin under the dash must have been my problem. I don't know why exactly, but, now the tach is working perfectly - smoothest I have ever seen in a Datsun.
So, here is what I did -
I had cut into the black/white wire that comes from the ignition and goes to the positive coil wire under the dash to the left of the steering column, in an effort to keep all my wiring inboard. I removed and repaired that splice and ran two jumper wires out the window direct to the coil. I removed an inline fuse on the line and put the white wires from the tach in series, basically in place of the fuse to test.
The tach works perfectly. The car settled into a rumbly idle at about 750 rpm, and sounded right on as I bumped up the revs. Tomorrow night I will run the wires neatly out to the coil and connect properly.
I didn't end up using any resistors.
I am still running the EI dizzy.
Thanks to all for the feedback and insights! Can't wait to get her back together and off to the ice cream shoppe.
dw
Finally got back around to the Tach install after having the car parked all winter!
After re-reading all the instructions on this thread and staring forever at the wiring diagram, I decided that my effort to cut into the wiring inside the cabin under the dash must have been my problem. I don't know why exactly, but, now the tach is working perfectly - smoothest I have ever seen in a Datsun.
So, here is what I did -
I had cut into the black/white wire that comes from the ignition and goes to the positive coil wire under the dash to the left of the steering column, in an effort to keep all my wiring inboard. I removed and repaired that splice and ran two jumper wires out the window direct to the coil. I removed an inline fuse on the line and put the white wires from the tach in series, basically in place of the fuse to test.
The tach works perfectly. The car settled into a rumbly idle at about 750 rpm, and sounded right on as I bumped up the revs. Tomorrow night I will run the wires neatly out to the coil and connect properly.
I didn't end up using any resistors.
I am still running the EI dizzy.
Thanks to all for the feedback and insights! Can't wait to get her back together and off to the ice cream shoppe.
dw
David Wilson
67.5 SRL311 #00050
67.5 SRL311 #544
68 SPL/SRL311 Racecar project
69 SRL311
69 SRL311
71 510 Sedan - L20B w/SU's and 280ZX 5 spd
72 510 Sedan - L18 w/Webers and Dogleg 5 spd
74 260Z - L26 w/ Triple Webers and 280ZX 5 spd
89 Toyota HiAce
67.5 SRL311 #00050
67.5 SRL311 #544
68 SPL/SRL311 Racecar project
69 SRL311
69 SRL311
71 510 Sedan - L20B w/SU's and 280ZX 5 spd
72 510 Sedan - L18 w/Webers and Dogleg 5 spd
74 260Z - L26 w/ Triple Webers and 280ZX 5 spd
89 Toyota HiAce
Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
This report is like the typical major chord resolution at the end of the symphony; resolved!
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: 01 Mar 2017 21:52
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
I did stand up and give myself a standing ovation after...
I sorted out all the wiring yesterday and got everything buttoned back up and took her out for a spin. The tach is seriously the stablest of any I have ever had in a Datsun... I am used to a little bit of a bouncy needle in both my Z and my Roadster...
Thanks again for all the help guys.
dw
I sorted out all the wiring yesterday and got everything buttoned back up and took her out for a spin. The tach is seriously the stablest of any I have ever had in a Datsun... I am used to a little bit of a bouncy needle in both my Z and my Roadster...
Thanks again for all the help guys.
dw
David Wilson
67.5 SRL311 #00050
67.5 SRL311 #544
68 SPL/SRL311 Racecar project
69 SRL311
69 SRL311
71 510 Sedan - L20B w/SU's and 280ZX 5 spd
72 510 Sedan - L18 w/Webers and Dogleg 5 spd
74 260Z - L26 w/ Triple Webers and 280ZX 5 spd
89 Toyota HiAce
67.5 SRL311 #00050
67.5 SRL311 #544
68 SPL/SRL311 Racecar project
69 SRL311
69 SRL311
71 510 Sedan - L20B w/SU's and 280ZX 5 spd
72 510 Sedan - L18 w/Webers and Dogleg 5 spd
74 260Z - L26 w/ Triple Webers and 280ZX 5 spd
89 Toyota HiAce
Re: Factory Tachometer Install with EI - Resistorr Size for use with EI Dizzy
I'm not sure if you've figured this out yet but the ballast resistor is there to reduce voltage to the positive side of the coil and has absolutly nothing to do with a tach signal. I'm running a two wire tach with a matchbox distributor and it works just fine no resistors or anything else just the trigger wire run from the distributor to the tach and back to the negative side of the coil. It is a little bouncy at a sustained RPM but I feel that is due to the tach being 45 years old