L16/18/20 Intake Manifold Flange Plate - Tech Drawing

[Woznaldo]

Good Evening fellow 510 freaks,

Does anyone have an accurate technical drawing or CAD file for an L-Series intake manifold flange plate?

I want too make my own custom manifold to run Suzuki GSXR throttle bodies and it would make my start point a lot easier. I’ve taken measurements of an old manifold I have but there’s still a bit of trial and error in getting it right. That said I think I’m pretty close now.

I’ll post up the completed CAD file when completed for all to share.

Woz

[datzenmike]

I don't have a CAD file I just jumped in and made them.

I took a non water cooled U67 intake and cut the flange ends off and traced it out on 1/2" steel and cut out both front and back. Used a 1.5" hole saw on a $50 drill press and a lot of water for coolant in a squeeze bottle. I used steel only because I can weld that well enough or I would have used aluminum.





1.5" muffler pipe and a miter cut off saw I borrowed.





Mock up on a spare head this winter




Had to make an anchor point for the 720 throttle cable I used or it would have hit the hood when closed.



Turns out the R-1 throttle is only 0.6" radius whereas the 340 Datsun carb is 1.2" so there was only about 1 inch of pedal travel. Quite a bitch if you want to drive t anything below full throttle. I moved the throttle pedal fulcrum point up 1.4" and this lengthens the pedal travel enough, I hope.




Today it's look something like this, but still several things to sort out. The R-1 carbs cave a coolant passage through them so I'l connect this up. One carburetor leeks so I made gaskets for all four. Have to drill the jets to 1.8mm for an L20B.



The lack of vacuum is made up for with a GM electric vacuum booster pump.

[Woznaldo]

Wow! Thanks for the comprehensive reply!!

Yep, I could just make it, but I want to make it repeatable for others too. I too have a spare manifold, but cast Aluminium (correct spelling) can sometimes be a bitch to weld, so I thought I’d get flanges water jet cut and then weld on some runners.

[Fred_L-P]

Unfortunately I don't have an L series to scan
But I have a 3D laser scanner if anyone is in the Montreal area with a spare manifold. It has a 27 microns accuracy so it should be good enough

[Woznaldo]

Come on guys and girls. Take one for the team!

[510rob]

Unfortunately I don't have an L series to scan
But I have a 3D laser scanner if anyone is in the Montreal area with a spare manifold. It has a 27 microns accuracy so it should be good enough

Can you scan any material?

[Fred_L-P]

Pretty much yes, if the surface is too reflective (like a glass or shiny machined surface) there's a lot of "noise" in the scan but nothing some liquid penetrant developer (matte white powder spray) can't fix.

[NunoTT]

The lack of vacuum is made up for with a GM electric vacuum booster pump.

This might be a bit of topic, but how do you like the vacuum pump? I think about getting one for my self, but I am a bit worried that it might be a bit noisy (I don't really know much abut vacuum booster pumps...)

[Chadsinto510s]

Wow! Thanks for the comprehensive reply!!

[CLIPPED] manifold, but cast Aluminium (correct spelling) [CLIPPED]

Not in the States it's not.

Does anyone have an accurate technical drawing or CAD file for an L-Series intake manifold flange plate?

I want too make my own custom manifold to run Suzuki GSXR throttle bodies and it would make my start point a lot easier. I’ve taken measurements of an old manifold I have but there’s still a bit of trial and error in getting it right. That said I think I’m pretty close now.

I’ll post up the completed CAD file when completed for all to share.

Woz

Could you use a int/exh gasket to scan? Then you don't have to cut up a manifold. Just a thought. I don't know anything about scanning materials for CAD so....

[datzenmike]

This might be a bit of topic, but how do you like the vacuum pump? I think about getting one for my self, but I am a bit worried that it might be a bit noisy (I don't really know much abut vacuum booster pumps...)

Originally it was connected to the ignition but this makes it work ALL the time and it gets HOT!!! I thought they were set to shut off automatically but NO. Rewired it for on only with the brake lights but at long stops you can hear it buzzing away. I've ordered an adjustable vacuum switch from Amazon that shuts of at a set vacuum. Then it will only come on after using the brake booster to replace the vacuum lost.