hey just got my first 510 and im tryin to take care of all the kinks and problems. the issue im having right now is the door locks. they dont lock or unlock. i removerd the door card and played around with the assembly. every thing is conected and wants to function however, they wont actually lock. everything wants do work but it just wont. something is jamming it up. have the same problems on both sides. is this a common thing? if anyone can help me i would appreciate it alot im gettin kinda nervous leaving it out all the time and not being able to lock it up. please help.
thank you
door lock troubles
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tycot1
- Supporter
- Posts: 1295
- Joined: 12 Oct 2006 18:22
- Location: maple ridge, british columbia, canada
locks
if it is in the tumbler itself where the problem is you can pick up late 80 s- early 90s ford tumblers. They fit very nicely all you may have to do is file the square slots in the door to make it fit, make sure you put a good body shop green masking tape down when you file and file from the outside of the car door inwards, remember to only apply preasure going in or the paint may peel. The nylon rod retainer on the back works great too. So you end up with a newer , slightly tighter lock that doesnt take a simple pair of scissors to open. Locks need to be lubed with wd-40 a few times a year. If the prob is in the door latch itself open it up and clean regrease. maybe replace. Door lock can seize without lubing that maybe what happend.
Something similar happened to mine...
Take off the door pannel. There is a rod that goes verticaly and connects from the door handle itself to the lock mechanism. At the bottom it has a little plastic tan nut adjuster. I had to turn it clockwise (make it go up) abut 1/4" then when I shut the door it would lock. before...I tried pushing down on the lock manually it wouldnt budge..now it locks fine. May or may not help just a idea.
Take off the door pannel. There is a rod that goes verticaly and connects from the door handle itself to the lock mechanism. At the bottom it has a little plastic tan nut adjuster. I had to turn it clockwise (make it go up) abut 1/4" then when I shut the door it would lock. before...I tried pushing down on the lock manually it wouldnt budge..now it locks fine. May or may not help just a idea.
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Lysol
71-521 -that might be an idea when would you be available?
tycot1 -i dont think its the tumbler itself, i can put the key in and it will turn either way just wont go ito locking position. the lock pin on the inside wont do it either it moves a bit but not enough. i will try to lube it.
mesojdm -i looked at those deals and already they are about 1/4 inch off of the little plate that they catch on.
thank you for your help
if anyone has anymore ideas they would be much appreciated. thanks a ton
tycot1 -i dont think its the tumbler itself, i can put the key in and it will turn either way just wont go ito locking position. the lock pin on the inside wont do it either it moves a bit but not enough. i will try to lube it.
mesojdm -i looked at those deals and already they are about 1/4 inch off of the little plate that they catch on.
thank you for your help
if anyone has anymore ideas they would be much appreciated. thanks a ton
Here's my take on this whole lock thing. I found that the door handle needs to be adjusted just right otherwise the locking mechanism will
bind. If it is out of adjustment just a tiny bit it will not lock with the key
or even manually from inside the car. I found this out when I was
changing the clip that holds the rod in place. There are many clips
that are available on newer nissan cars that will work.
As for WD-40, I suggest to use powdered graphite, it is probaby a better lubricant.
bind. If it is out of adjustment just a tiny bit it will not lock with the key
or even manually from inside the car. I found this out when I was
changing the clip that holds the rod in place. There are many clips
that are available on newer nissan cars that will work.
As for WD-40, I suggest to use powdered graphite, it is probaby a better lubricant.
1984 Renault R5 Turbo2 - L' Enfant Terrible
1989 BMW E30 M3 "God's Chariot"
2001 Renault Clio V6 Sport Phase 1
1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GTR V-Spec
1989 BMW E30 M3 "God's Chariot"
2001 Renault Clio V6 Sport Phase 1
1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GTR V-Spec
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tycot1
- Supporter
- Posts: 1295
- Joined: 12 Oct 2006 18:22
- Location: maple ridge, british columbia, canada
locks
i know wd-40 sounds a little corny and i questioned it myself, but i spoke to a lock pro last week and they said the problem with a graphite spray is it wont evaporate and as the lock starts to get dirty it will now hold all the dirt and moisture it picks up. therefor wd-40 is the only spray they use and repeat throughout the year, because as we all know wd-40 does break down and evap after awhile. when you re-wd-40 you are actually flushing the old junk out and you will see the colour diff, and you are regreasing at the same time. They strongly suggest against ANYTHING else, but that is just coming from a pro lock shop that has been in business for 50 years. the graphite will, as we all know is actually a solid in a can, and can start to harden and gum up the lock. take it for what its worth guys.
Re:
Thanks for this - I had a similar problem and your fix was exactly what was needed! Two full turns of the adjuster nut and it was good as new.mesojdm wrote: ↑01 Apr 2007 22:17 Something similar happened to mine...
Take off the door pannel. There is a rod that goes verticaly and connects from the door handle itself to the lock mechanism. At the bottom it has a little plastic tan nut adjuster. I had to turn it clockwise (make it go up) abut 1/4" then when I shut the door it would lock. before...I tried pushing down on the lock manually it wouldnt budge..now it locks fine. May or may not help just a idea.
Cheers,
Angus