Am I in over my head? '70 2 door from scratch

[ostaylor]

Good progress over the last week...

My painter got the booth cleaned and the car prepped.

Primed and taped.jpg (40.48 KiB) Viewed 419 times

Primed and taped. 2jpg.jpg (40.96 KiB) Viewed 419 times

Unfortunately, he went to paint it on Thursday and there was a problem with the paint. When he went to get that corrected, they were out of something and didn't think they could get it until next week. That got sorted out on Friday and here it is! I haven't seen it in person yet (hoping to see it Sunday or Monday) but it looks amazing to me!

Exterior Paint 1.jpg (359.14 KiB) Viewed 419 times

Exterior Paint Trunk.jpg (79.88 KiB) Viewed 419 times

Exterior Paint Rear windows with Car in background.jpg (113.76 KiB) Viewed 419 times

Exterior Paint Pass Door.jpg (47.7 KiB) Viewed 419 times

And I arrived home after a travel week to find this (from Sal Ceja on Facebook). I am really impressed with the quality of his restoration on this engine compartment light. I've always thought these were such a nice touch but wasn't actually aware that the bulb pulls away from the base with a long wire inside so you can use it like a flashlight!

Restored Engine Compartment Light.jpg (186.33 KiB) Viewed 419 times

[RONSLYCHUK]

Wow! The paint looks awesome.

[ostaylor]

As my car is nearing paint completion, I am starting to plan my assembly and thought I'd get input from the Realm on what you all think. I did search to see if this has been covered before and did not find it, but if someone else is aware of this having been covered, please just link to the correct thread.

For my assembly order, I am starting with the shell only - no suspension, no nothing - I am also doing an SR20DET swap and have not done pre-fitment of the engine prior to paint. Unfortunately, the timing for doing that and aligning with my painter and the machinist and engine builder just didn't work out. I suspect I will regret that, but I am also very aware of going slowly and doing what I can to protect everything as I put the engine in and work through fitting and connecting everything for the engine and transmission. I did fit the Intercooler (minor modification required) and radiator.

I have told my painter that I want the car back disassembled (leave the doors, trunk lid, hood, etc. all off of the car. I have space to store these safely and my thinking is that having access to all of these spaces without having to open and close things, will make everything easier.

My plan (and not including individual parts, but the general categories):
Front and rear suspension (including rear differential)
Front and rear brakes
Size and order wheels and tires
Dash, steering column, pedals
Vintage air heating / cooing / defrost assembly
Brake master cylinder and brake lines
Clutch master cylinder and rough in lines to transmission
Gas tank and fuel lines
Rough fit wiring / wiring harness / fuse box / ECU location
Trunk battery compartment and battery wiring
Engine and transmission and work through all connections and fitment issues
Intercooler and radiator
Interior including the headliner
Doors, trunk lid and hood
Door handles, door and side window glass and mechanisms
Rubber and other seals for doors, trunk, hood, etc.
Front and rear windshield glass
Exterior lighting, trim, bumpers,

Thoughts on this approach? Any sequence that you might change?

[gooned]

First thing that comes to mind is lower the body over the engine/trans on the crossmember if able, way less chance of ruining paint…that’s how the factory did it.

[MikeY]

That order seems right. Get the brake and clutch hard lines in before the engine for sure. I've never install an engine from below. But it's been done. I have a leveler on my hoist and can change the tilt as I'm lowering the engine in. A towel on the front top rad support and a careful eye on the firewall and it slips right in. Engine and transmission together. But this is for l series. Also leave the center link out. I install the center link loosely and drop it just for the engine install.
It looks great.

[ostaylor]

First thing that comes to mind is lower the body over the engine/trans on the crossmember if able, way less chance of ruining paint…that’s how the factory did it.

Interesting... Wasn't planning to do it this way, but no reason I shouldn't be able to and I agree that it seems less likely to be bumping into the firewall and radiator support.

[RONSLYCHUK]

That’s the way Byron has done it. Maybe he will chime in to this post.

[Stu]

I would put your front glass in before the dash. The newer gaskets can be a bit on the chonky side and you might need to clearance some things. Also, it is sooooo much easier to do it with full access to the gasket (rope pull method). Also, the glass helps hold the headliner and the longer there is no glass to hold it tight, the more the glue starts to slip

[cwd240z]

Car is looking great!

First thing that comes to mind is lower the body over the engine/trans on the crossmember if able, way less chance of ruining paint…that’s how the factory did it.

Interesting... Wasn't planning to do it this way, but no reason I shouldn't be able to and I agree that it seems less likely to be bumping into the firewall and radiator support.

I second this method, if possible. I did this as well.

[ostaylor]

I would put your front glass in before the dash. The newer gaskets can be a bit on the chonky side and you might need to clearance some things. Also, it is sooooo much easier to do it with full access to the gasket (rope pull method). Also, the glass helps hold the headliner and the longer there is no glass to hold it tight, the more the glue starts to slip

I thought about this, but assumed I would need to put in the headliner first and not sure I want to do that before the rest of the interior... I was planning to do the headliner and then the glass immediately after. My glass guy just did my other 510 and did a really great job. I'll discuss with him if he has a strong preference, but at least based on my other car, I know he can do the glass with the dash in.

[72ultraorange]

Car is looking great!

First thing that comes to mind is lower the body over the engine/trans on the crossmember if able, way less chance of ruining paint…that’s how the factory did it.

Interesting... Wasn't planning to do it this way, but no reason I shouldn't be able to and I agree that it seems less likely to be bumping into the firewall and radiator support.

I second this method, if possible. I did this as well.

This method is SOOOO much easier than using a hoist or jacks at home! In my recent assembly day at the P&B shop, we assembled the engine, trans, and cross member and R&P on a table, put it on a rolling dolly, positioned it under the shell and then lowered the car over the whole assembly. Trick is making sure your rolling dolly is tall enough to enable the lift to be lowered to the right height to attach the 4 bolts in the engine cross member to the frame. Once we got the cross member installed, we supported the transmission with a floor jack and lifted the car up high enough to bolt in the transmission cross member. Get at least 2 bolts in; lift the car up, and then you will be good to get everything tightened up. Then you can install the front suspension components. For the rear suspension, we used a pallet jack and had the whole assembly together, including coil overs — 6 bolts and done.

In my original engine mock up at home i was able to get the SR and the trans into the engine bay with a hoist and a leveler (and a lot of help) — but hit the firewall and damaged the rain gutter at the top… better planning could have avoided this— but I was way past the point of no return and had to force it into the engine bay. May be other methods of installing transmission and then the engine…but getting the main shaft splines to line up in the clutch will be an exciting adventure….

[72ultraorange]

Very Smart not to have the panels attached when you get the car back from P&B!!! The first thing I had to do was remove all the panels to start on my reassembly. Ironically, I have also been thinking about the reassembly order… I made out a list of about 170 things and know that I want to put the steering column back in first to help move it around. Next will be the exhaust - to understand where the heat will be, then the brake lines, then fuel tank. Last week I asked ChatGPT to give me a task list to reassemble the car in the correct order without rework… Nothing can replace the experience of everyone on this forum … but I was blown away by the response I got:

=========
Restoring a 1972 Datsun 510 is a complex project that involves various steps. Here's a high-level task list to guide you through the process, considering the different systems involved. Keep in mind that this is a general guideline, and the specifics may vary based on the condition of your car and your personal preferences:

Disassembly:
a. Carefully label and document every part you remove.
b. Remove the engine, transmission, suspension, interior, and exterior components.

Body Work:
a. Assess and repair rust and corrosion on the body.
b. Perform any necessary panel replacement or fabrication.
c. Prepare the body for paint, including sanding, priming, and painting.

Mechanical Systems:
a. Rebuild or replace the engine.
b. Rebuild or replace the transmission and clutch.
c. Rebuild or replace the suspension components.
d. Rebuild or replace the steering components.

Electrical System:
a. Inspect and replace the wiring harness if necessary.
b. Rebuild or replace the fuse box and switches.
c. Install new lights, including headlights, taillights, and interior lights.

Drive Train:
a. Rebuild or replace the driveshaft and differential.
b. Rebuild or replace the axles and CV joints.
c. Install the transmission and engine back into the chassis.

Brake System:
a. Rebuild or replace the brake calipers and wheel cylinders.
b. Replace brake pads and shoes.
c. Install new brake lines and hoses.
d. Bleed the brake system.

Cooling System:
a. Replace the radiator and hoses.
b. Rebuild or replace the water pump.
c. Ensure the thermostat and cooling fans are functioning correctly.

Interior:
a. Replace the upholstery, including seats, carpet, and headliner.
b. Install a new dashboard and instruments.
c. Reassemble the interior trim and panels.

Exterior:
a. Reattach the body panels, doors, and fenders.
b. Install new or refurbished glass and weatherstripping.
c. Reassemble the exterior trim, bumpers, and emblems.

Electronics:
a. Install or upgrade the stereo and speakers.
b. Set up the electronic ignition system.
c. Verify proper operation of all electrical components.

Final Assembly:
a. Reconnect all components, following your documentation from disassembly.
b. Check for any missing or damaged parts.
c. Test all systems, including engine, lights, brakes, and electronics.

Tuning and Testing:
a. Tune the engine and perform a break-in period.
b. Align the wheels and perform a test drive.
c. Fine-tune any remaining issues.

Detailing and Final Touches:
a. Clean and detail the entire car.
b. Apply any finishing touches, such as badges or decals.

Documentation:
a. Keep detailed records of the work done and parts used for future reference.

Enjoy Your Restored Datsun 510:
a. Once everything is in working order, take your beautifully restored car for a spin and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
This task list is a starting point. You may need to adapt it based on your specific project and the condition of your Datsun 510. Additionally, consult service manuals, forums, and experts for guidance throughout the restoration process. Good luck!

[ostaylor]

Last week I asked ChatGPT to give me a task list to reassemble the car in the correct order without rework… Nothing can replace the experience of everyone on this forum … but I was blown away by the response I got:

Wow - Not perfect, but pretty darn good and you've got to think it is going to just keep getting better...

[510rob]

we're doomed (chatgpt)

[Byron510]

For engine installation, I have done both but would agree that installing the engine and trans together on the crossmember and then into the car from below is way less stressful! I’ve used both a hoist or I have made a big years ago that bolts into the front bumper mounts. Without a hoist and with the rear suspension in place, I would lift the front of the car up and slide the drivetrain right under the car and lower the car onto the crossmember and trans mount.
Also you have it right, the headliner goes in first. Make sure you have the wiring for the dome light and the rear defrost already in place. Then glass, then pedal box, then dash.
Awesome to see another new dime going together.

Byron