72 Ultra Orange - Bucket List Restomod

[icehouse]

Looks nice! I did the DP racing brake pedal box. Worked great but I hate how he uses imperial fasteners.

[Rush]

So mint!

[72ultraorange]

Very nice work. Happy New Year!

Ron - Happy New Year… Thank you! Incremental progress!

The build is looking amazing... I've got to go through your whole thread again soon as I push forward with mine.

I considered the DP racing pedal setup... but mine is in perfect condition and was powder coated by the PO... so sticking with it and went with the Datsport booster and a new 7/8 inch master cylinder.

I'll post an update in my thread soon. I'm also very committed to 2024 being my run year - hoping for a late spring / early summer go live.

Owen, Thank you — the build is only due to those that came before on “The Realm”… it’s all been done and there is a lot of great knowledge out here. I had Don at DP Racing spec my brake kit and we decided to do the pedal box upgrade. Just need to get it plumbed properly to all work! I have some serious heat shielding work to do on the master cylinders —- see next post; but have seen several options out there. Hoping to get the build done this year for sure. Good luck with your build — that suspension is awesome!

Looks nice! I did the DP racing brake pedal box. Worked great but I hate how he uses imperial fasteners.

Thanks Icehouse - I think I have 1/2 of the bolts metric and 1/2 SAE on the suspension — a mechanics dream I have so many “science projects” ahead; may ship my car out to you when I get stuck! Very few folks around here even know what a 510 is

So mint!

Rush, Thank you- I am only trying to keep up with you — and there is no way I could do all of the things you did bespoke for your car! I had the original 4 door 510 as a teenager — making this one a little more like the Datsun I never had

[72ultraorange]

Focusing on getting the plumbing for the turbo sorted — the water inlet / return and oil feed / drain. All of these connect to the block or to the water outlet from the block to the radiator. These will need to be oriented around the exhaust manifold and shielded from heat. Having Mazworx make these for my installation — but have to get them measured out with the proper AN fittings including angled 90 degree fittings. Did some research and think I have the connection points located - any second set of eyes out there would be great to let me know if I have mis-identified any of the plumbing ports.

Here is the progress from this evening on the exhaust manifold, down pipe, waste gate, and turbo installation. Was fairly easy since we mocked all of this up before paint and body. Just needs to be tightened up to be complete and ensure clearances around the steering linkage — very close there!!

Oil and Water Plumbing ports on Block:

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Manifold Bolts, Gasket, Manifold and Waste Gate Installation:

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Oil and Water Plumbing ports on Turbo:

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BOOSTED! Ready to measure for Turbo Plumbing:

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[Stu]

Wow that looks great. I thought putting the SR20DE was a tight fit but, wooo-weee, that turbo system is packed and stacked. Going to be a monster.

[Stu]

Wow that looks great. I thought putting the SR20DE was a tight fit in some places but, wooo-weee, that turbo system is packed and stacked. Going to be a monster.

[72ultraorange]

Wow that looks great. I thought putting the SR20DE was a tight fit in some places but, wooo-weee, that turbo system is packed and stacked. Going to be a monster.

Stu, thank you. Making some incremental progress; and as you know, everything is a science project - sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn’t. With respect to the the turbo — I decided to pull it apart and coat and wrap everything to help with heat — due to the proximity of the exhaust to the body and the master cylinders. Still planning get his running this year!

[72ultraorange]

Incremental Progress update — got a few things done over the past few weeks. I decided to Cerakote the downpipe and turbo housing and wrap all of it due to heat in proximity to the master cylinders and fender wells. Had some of the trim work powder coated, installed the coil packs and started working on the tail lights and side markers. The gaskets i ordered for the taillights are not so good - ordered some new ones. The CNC machined AC compressor bracket came in. Expecting the oil and water plumbing hoses for the turbo this week.

The wiring specialties wiring harness arrived and considering ECU and wiring harness installation locations. I “may” build a tray to house this in the glove box as others have done; but would need to remove the functionality of the glove box to get this installed; just having the glove box door with no “box” behind it. ECU, Race Bussman, harness and other electronics are going to be a tight fit. No room for passengers

Plan to finish the turbo and exhaust side before starting on the intake side. Brake lines and rework on the e-brake will be my next big science project.

Some Pictures:

Powder coated bumpers - here is the trunk lid and one of the bumpers:

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Lighting trim powder coated:

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** Rubber gaskets on side markers are not really seating properly around trim and light bezels on these replacement housings. Most likely will use a trim tool to adjust the gaskets as the trim is compressed during installation; as there is really no way to seat the trim in the gasket with the bezel. Anyone else have a solution for this?

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Exhaust wrap / Turbo Housing - Down pipe is off currently due to the blow-by pipe and turbo hoses to be installed.

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Coil Pack install - PRP R35 GT-R
Parts from Wiring Specialties - https://www.wiringspecialties.com/prp-r ... hw-stalks/
Installation instructions: - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0354/ ... CTIONS.pdf
The front coil pack has to be modified to fit with a belt sander.

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Note retainer / bolt hole on #1 cylinder coil pack is sanded off and a clip is used to retain it in the bracket

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CNC Machined Air conditioner bracket for Sanden SD-7B10 AC Compressor - to be powder coated Black

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Working to get the crankcase ventilation / blow-by hose installed before I finish the down pipe install. Key concern - the engine builder installed an AN fitting on the block side and the valve cover has a push on hose fitting. Looking at options to complete this.
The hose in question is this one: https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan__/ ... 65F05.html

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[ostaylor]

You are making some good progress. I expect my engine to be ready for pickup when I get back from vacation in a week. I have been picking away at a bunch of little things that need doing, but never really make me feel like I am making progress even after many hours of work.

Very interesting that you are thinking you may need to sacrifice the glove box.. I assume this is primarily for the ECU? I was planning to put mine on the firewall or build something below the dash but I am waiting on my Classic Air heating and cooling setup to see where everything will fit.

Any experience with that exhaust wrap? Do you expect it will make much difference? That area is definitely a challenging area for SR swaps in the 510. I am hoping that a heat shield will be enough but now you've got me thinking.

[KiKiIchiBan]

I've enjoyed going back to the beginning and reading this whole thread again. Hope you get it finished this year.

[Stu]

How long is the harness to the ECU? Could it go under the passenger seat? Having mine on the firewall is not too visible but I would have mounted it under the glove box if I did not put all of my relays and fuses there. I’d hate to give up the glove box

[72ultraorange]

You are making some good progress. I expect my engine to be ready for pickup when I get back from vacation in a week. I have been picking away at a bunch of little things that need doing, but never really make me feel like I am making progress even after many hours of work.

Very interesting that you are thinking you may need to sacrifice the glove box.. I assume this is primarily for the ECU? I was planning to put mine on the firewall or build something below the dash but I am waiting on my Classic Air heating and cooling setup to see where everything will fit.

Any experience with that exhaust wrap? Do you expect it will make much difference? That area is definitely a challenging area for SR swaps in the 510. I am hoping that a heat shield will be enough but now you've got me thinking.

Thanks Owen, and yes, every part of this project is a new science project and requires some special parts and takes hours of research and FSO - Figuring “stuff” Out. Good luck with your engine - hope you get it back soon!

With respect to the glove box install location for the ECU — just my initial thoughts on making the electronics, wiring, fuse box all maintainable. The firewall space under the passenger side in my car will be where the AC / Heat / Defrost evaporator will be installed. It could be installed on the kick panel on the right side of the passenger foot well. I need to get my dash frame installed to determine what will work.

The exhaust wrap was a PITA to install. A lot of info out there on it. Handling it is worse than handling normal fiberglass insulation. Hoping to get this on the track one day - and thinking this will help save the paint due to the proximity of the turbo to the hood — and keep the heat down enough to keep the brake fluid from overheating in a track condition. However, I can’t quite see myself bringing the brake fluid to boiling point in this yet I do run Motul RBF660 in my track car and have boiled out the PS fluid before installing an upgraded cooling system. I also plan to get a heat shield for the master cylinders.

I've enjoyed going back to the beginning and reading this whole thread again. Hope you get it finished this year.

Hey KiKilchiBan, Thank you for the support and I do plan to get this running this year!! Trying to stay ahead of “what’s next” parts orders and custom fittings…Getting everything plumbed properly is my top priority right now. And you can’t just run down to Home Depot to get parts!

How long is the harness to the ECU? Could it go under the passenger seat? Having mine on the firewall is not too visible but I would have mounted it under the glove box if I did not put all of my relays and fuses there. I’d hate to give up the glove box

Hey Stu, I measured the wiring harness — from the ECU plug to the main break out is 4’ with the breakout fan being being another 3’ max length for the CAS connector - it might work to go under the passenger seat (TBD). Need to get plumbing done before I get to wiring. It will certainly work if I cut a new hole in the firewall as a pass thru - don’t want to do this, but it might be cleaner. Looking at the size of the OEM pass thru hole, I may be challenged to get the harness plugs through that anyway. Another project ahead for sure.

Brilliant work on your wiring installation and making a wiring panel / bulkhead - that is awesome and that is something I also want to achieve in my build. If I remove the back of the glove box, I could make it like a server rack with a tray that pulls out with a cable accordion retainer in the back. If I install it under the passenger seat it will install it like a motherboard with standoffs. I need to get the harness in and see how much slack I have to finalize this. Under the glove box is certainly another option — need to do some sketching to get this planned out.


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Also got the turbo lines in this week — 2 of the block side fittings need to be changed … probably will be a couple more weeks to sort this out. Will post on this this soon.