Where to look for rust on a 510... ?

[wes06]

Did a couple searches and couldn't find anything, although I'm sure this is a popular topic.

Also, I wonder if it would be well worth the hassle just to get a bodyshop to look for rust before I buy a 510 (I'm really no expert).

Does anyone know of good ones on the lower mainland, pref. close to tsawassen, or between Ladner and Tsawassen?

Thanks in advance.

[wes06]

and I hear a good way to look for bondo is with a magnet?

[defdes]

Floor pans, trunk, if there is rust there, and nowhere else, chances are that they'll be some filler somewhere. Feel around the inside of fenders, Look up in fender wells, engine compartment, and along unibody rails for signs of welding.

[Datsunkid-510-]

magnet is a good way but if it is to powerful it will stick even over bondo. A magnet is how i found the patch of bondo on my car

[oregondime]

dime quarterly did an article on common rust areas too. dont remember the issue

[kiznook]

check everywhere!!!

[TerryHackman]

I think the question is where do you find solid rust free sheet metal on a 510? I have seen them rust out everywhere...Maybe a NOS fender still in the dealership warehouse will be rust free ... Ha!

[TerryHackman]

I think the question is where do you find solid rust free sheet metal on a 510? I have seen them rust out everywhere...Maybe a NOS fender still in the dealership warehouse will be rust free ... Ha!

[Yellowcar]

Check the body if it is rust free you are most likely OK

Seriously though rockers, floors, trunk floor, bottom of rear quarters and
don't forget to check under the windshield and trunk seals

[yenpit]

Just a l'il advice.......if the potential car has a nice paint job, ask the seller if they would mind you using a magnet. Assure them that you will only carefully "place it" on the sheetmetal, and not "drag it", as it can scratch the paint! Wipe it off on your shirt or pants, every time you pull it off, as it will pick up dirt. Years ago, I went to look at a car, took out my magnet, and started carefully placing it in areas prone to rust. The seller got upset because he was afraid that I would scratch it, so I always ask now!

Also, I use one of those floppy refridgerator magnets used for advertising etc etc. They are NOT very powerful. If you use a strong magnet, it will still "pull down", even if there is a skim of bondo. I like the weaker magnet, as I can usually feel it better when it doesn't want to stick! Hope that helps!

[yenpit]

Well, my text didn't show up in the pics, but it only pointed out the rust prone areas. I've circled lots of hot spots in red. BRING A FLASHLIGHT, even during the day!!!!!!!
**Look everywhere up inside the front fenders.
**There's a trick to rear wheel arches.......most people will bondo OVER the spotwelds when making repairs to rusty rear wheel arches. Look at the 1/2 wide flat lip that rolls under 90deg, all the around the wheel arch. There should be a 1/4 inch "divet" (spotweld) every few inches.
**On the sides, behind the rear wheel arch, below the rear bumper, ALSO check BEHIND (see the red ARROW). For example, left side next to the rear muffler, look up & towards the outside of the car. Do the same on the right side.
**The floor pans are usually obvious. If the pan is a dead FLAT piece of sheetmetal, then it has been replaced. The factory pans had "form", with a couple of 1 inch or so drainage holes plugged with rubber grommets. Look at ALL FOUR PANS for a visual comparison.

[yenpit]

This parts car was rotted to the core!

**Lower rear corner of the rear 1/4 windows
**Lower corners of the doors
**Front fenders - all the way UP the side along the leading edge of the door. Also, the top front corner, and the TOP INNER lip where it bolts to the top of the inner fender panel.
**Rear 1/4's are likely one of the worst areas - look for signs of repair, and use the magnet.

This car had the front frame rails rotted all the way thru, form the inside of the engine compartment, THRU to the outside, in the front fender area (behind the wheel/tire).

Maybe someone local has a badly rotted parts car that you can go look at, to get an idea of just where to look.

[yenpit]

This is the bottom of the left windshield post. The hardest thing about checking for rust in the glass channel, is that the big thick rubber gasket/seal for the glass is often hard from age, and can not be pushed back to get a peek. I found a rust hole on both the left and right channels, but none in the rear glass channel (I believe the front is much more prone). There was NO indication of any rust with the glass & seal in place.......I only found it upon removal of the glass!

If the seller removed the glass & seal for paint, then chances are that they cleaned that area up nice, but may have filled rust holes with bondo.

Bottom line, body work is often a difficult discussion with a seller!! One persons idea of proper rust repair is to use bondo, while for others it is to correctly cut & weld! A proper restoration should always be accompanied by LOTS of pictures of the car when purchased, diassembled, repaired and painted!