SR20DET wiring into 510
SR20DET wiring into 510
Hi,
just want to know if there's a diagram for the wiring of a sr20det S13 in a 510???
I've seach on the board but didn't find...
hope someone can help me out!
just want to know if there's a diagram for the wiring of a sr20det S13 in a 510???
I've seach on the board but didn't find...
hope someone can help me out!
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- Posts: 253
- Joined: 10 Jan 2007 12:35
- Location: Louisville, Kentucky
I am in the same boat as you. I have removed all of the stock wiring and will be using a ez wiring kit for all lights, horn, fuel pump and wipers. I was told by (icehouse) on here that the wiring is simple about 8 wires to hook up with relays and fuses. I will be starting on mine soon just need to find out what wires go where. Wire info can be found here on what goes where
heavythrottle.com
heavythrottle.com
Yes there is about 8 wires on the sr harness that are needed to make it run. I kept the 510 wiring stock and relayed a the sr20, ecu, fuel pump and ignitor off the coil wire. This keeps everything separate. So one day when for some reason you want to put a L motor back in it will be possible. I personally would not rewire the whole car, this would be time consuming and have no real point. The major flaws in the 510 wiring are not hard to fix. I personally think the only upgrades that are needed are a 90amp alternator and some good hella head lamps. Hainz has sourced out some add on plug and play relays for H4 conversions. The SR CA KA VG all have good sized alternators, so when you are done with your swap the car is good to go. The SR wires can be found on heavythrottle.com under SR swap info, they give the colors and a description of what the wire does. I've wired 5 or 6 s13 engines using there write-up with the factor service manual for the s13 as a cross reference. Soon I should be doing a write-up to help out the datto community, until then you will have to fend for yourself
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
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- Posts: 253
- Joined: 10 Jan 2007 12:35
- Location: Louisville, Kentucky
icehouse wrote:Yes there is about 8 wires on the sr harness that are needed to make it run. I kept the 510 wiring stock and relayed a the sr20, ecu, fuel pump and ignitor off the coil wire. This keeps everything separate. So one day when for some reason you want to put a L motor back in it will be possible. I personally would not rewire the whole car, this would be time consuming and have no real point. The major flaws in the 510 wiring are not hard to fix. I personally think the only upgrades that are needed are a 90amp alternator and some good hella head lamps. Hainz has sourced out some add on plug and play relays for H4 conversions. The SR CA KA VG all have good sized alternators, so when you are done with your swap the car is good to go. The SR wires can be found on heavythrottle.com under SR swap info, they give the colors and a description of what the wire does. I've wired 5 or 6 s13 engines using there write-up with the factor service manual for the s13 as a cross reference. Soon I should be doing a write-up to help out the datto community, until then you will have to fend for yourself
You want to make a little extra money and wire mine up for me with relays and fuses??
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- Posts: 253
- Joined: 10 Jan 2007 12:35
- Location: Louisville, Kentucky
This is what I do for the alternator, Take the oval plug with the 2 wires (one fat one skinny) take the thinner wire and hook it to the dash charge light ( you will need to jumper it at the voltage regulator, see factory manual for colors) Now take the thicker wire and loop it to the power stud, the post for the positive lead. Now run a wire from that to the bat. or if its in the trunk to the starter cable.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
Alternator
* Charge - (white on S13, blk/red on S14) This is the big lug on the alternator. Connect to Batt +VE (preferably via a large fuse - 80A)
* 12V Sense - (white on S13, yellow on S14) Smaller gauge wire. Connect to Batt +VE too. (preferably via a 10A fuse). This wire is used by the alternator to remotely sense battery voltage. Leaving it unconnected will cause the alternator to run "open loop" and charge at the maximum voltage. Not good for your battery!
* Alternator GND - (blk) With lug on each end. Connect from alternator body to chassis.
* Charge light - (w/red) Connect to charge light on dash. You should be able to use the original wire from your car
"yourrrr welcomeeee"
* Charge - (white on S13, blk/red on S14) This is the big lug on the alternator. Connect to Batt +VE (preferably via a large fuse - 80A)
* 12V Sense - (white on S13, yellow on S14) Smaller gauge wire. Connect to Batt +VE too. (preferably via a 10A fuse). This wire is used by the alternator to remotely sense battery voltage. Leaving it unconnected will cause the alternator to run "open loop" and charge at the maximum voltage. Not good for your battery!
* Alternator GND - (blk) With lug on each end. Connect from alternator body to chassis.
* Charge light - (w/red) Connect to charge light on dash. You should be able to use the original wire from your car
"yourrrr welcomeeee"
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- Posts: 253
- Joined: 10 Jan 2007 12:35
- Location: Louisville, Kentucky