the BEST DIY rear cross member?
It's been a while since this thread was updated.
Since I last posted, I've been at work on developing the adjustable rear suspension bracket some more. I know there were some interested people out there; I'm just letting you know I'm still on the job.
A few months back, I posted version 1, it had a very serious production flaw due to a lack of communication with cutter, and those were scrap.
Version 2 was finished a month ago, I met up with James and Rob one night to install them on James cross member (see pic), but there was another flaw that came apparent upon assembly; we needed more clearance between the top side of the control arm and the pivot bolt.
Changes were made to the drawing (thanks Rich for pushing this one through), and another set was ordered from the laser cutter.
So, tonight, we are here at Version 3. Richard just dropped off the freshly cut pieces (thanks again Rich). Now I need to modify my bending die/jig and we will be ready to try again.
We're really close, I'll keep you posted.
Byron
Since I last posted, I've been at work on developing the adjustable rear suspension bracket some more. I know there were some interested people out there; I'm just letting you know I'm still on the job.
A few months back, I posted version 1, it had a very serious production flaw due to a lack of communication with cutter, and those were scrap.
Version 2 was finished a month ago, I met up with James and Rob one night to install them on James cross member (see pic), but there was another flaw that came apparent upon assembly; we needed more clearance between the top side of the control arm and the pivot bolt.
Changes were made to the drawing (thanks Rich for pushing this one through), and another set was ordered from the laser cutter.
So, tonight, we are here at Version 3. Richard just dropped off the freshly cut pieces (thanks again Rich). Now I need to modify my bending die/jig and we will be ready to try again.
We're really close, I'll keep you posted.
Byron
- Attachments
Last edited by Byron510 on 04 May 2007 22:29, edited 1 time in total.
I sure can get some extra sets made; I do know that there is quite a bit of interest. What I don't know is what the cost will be. I have not yet been billed for the last two sets of "test" versions – when I get that bill, I’ll have a good idea of what this will cost you (and me!).
The brackets are made to accommodate the stock 510 rear control arm and stock mounting bolt. All other hardware will be supplied with the brackets. But I do want to mount a set, and make sure they have the full range of adjustment needed in the most extreme (really low) applications. I have a car that is waiting as a volunteer.
I'll keep you all posted.
Byron
The brackets are made to accommodate the stock 510 rear control arm and stock mounting bolt. All other hardware will be supplied with the brackets. But I do want to mount a set, and make sure they have the full range of adjustment needed in the most extreme (really low) applications. I have a car that is waiting as a volunteer.
I'll keep you all posted.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
- zootowndime
- Posts: 921
- Joined: 12 Oct 2005 19:08
- Location: Missoula, MT
I machined the jig tonight to bend the new, thicker redesigned Version three brackets. I didn't take any photos, but I will post some tomorrow.
McShagger will have this set tested on his car ASAP. If all goes well, and the adjustment is what we are looking for, then we'll have a very good alternative for rear wheel adjustment of camber and toe all in one bracket on our 510's.
Byron
McShagger will have this set tested on his car ASAP. If all goes well, and the adjustment is what we are looking for, then we'll have a very good alternative for rear wheel adjustment of camber and toe all in one bracket on our 510's.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
hmmm... do you think we could have some ready for Canby?
and i got the price today for all the pieces....
and i got the price today for all the pieces....
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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shardik wrote: My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.
Rich, PM me the costs.
I know it's been adding up over the course of this project.
I'd sure like to see a set on James car for Canby, I'll bet they'll be in place, and hopefully I'll have an uninstalled set to bring along to the show so that everyone down south can see them.
Byron
I know it's been adding up over the course of this project.
I'd sure like to see a set on James car for Canby, I'll bet they'll be in place, and hopefully I'll have an uninstalled set to bring along to the show so that everyone down south can see them.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
It's up to the person that installs them, really.
If you have a street car that never needs to be constantly adjusted, why not tack them in place so that they never move.
For the racing types, I'm going to supply serrated lock washers that are much better at keeping things in place. It's no guarantee, but better than a plain old lock washer.
FYI, I'll probably tack mine in place after I get it set where I want it.
Byron
If you have a street car that never needs to be constantly adjusted, why not tack them in place so that they never move.
For the racing types, I'm going to supply serrated lock washers that are much better at keeping things in place. It's no guarantee, but better than a plain old lock washer.
FYI, I'll probably tack mine in place after I get it set where I want it.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.