N/A FJ20 Build
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
more process:
After readin Byron's post, I opted for the MIG
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
To counter some of the stresses mentioned in earlier posts, and to avoid adding more material to the bottom, I opted for the deep groove method of welding in using multiple passes:
This is my next thing to fix, unfortunately the P.O. raised the LCA points, and didnt do the most accurate job..."It's within 1/4"" I am not looking forward to this, but have to now that I noticed it.
Part is cooling right now, I am going to redo the welds in the inside corner that were upside down as my "overhead" welding skills have dimished over the years. This is my next thing to fix, unfortunately the P.O. raised the LCA points, and didnt do the most accurate job..."It's within 1/4"" I am not looking forward to this, but have to now that I noticed it.
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
Fixed the above mentioned problem today...I like it when work is slow, I can really get stuff done. I started by making these two parts as a welding jig and tacked them to the table to keep everything in alignment:
I cleaned up the cut area and I got out the plasma cutter and had at it,
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
I then "ovalized" the hole the 3/8" of an inch that the current point was low...
I wonder if I'll notice the differance.
Got it back in the jig and tacked up
A little "whip and pause" and the hole's all filled.
Was allot less painless than I thought it would be, for once. I wonder if I'll notice the differance.
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
holy freakin' textbook-perfect MIG welds on the cut-'n-flip crossmember Batman! Nice wok John!
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
Picked up what I think is the last missing piece to this project, water jet cut header flange.
I am hoping tobe able to mod a set of L20B headers to fit, otherwise I'll go buy a kit from somewhere. Tomorrow I'll hang the engine in to locate and modify my existing motor mounts which I thought were going to work, but are nowhere close.
I am hoping tobe able to mod a set of L20B headers to fit, otherwise I'll go buy a kit from somewhere. Tomorrow I'll hang the engine in to locate and modify my existing motor mounts which I thought were going to work, but are nowhere close.
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
Looks great...I'm so jelous, I love FJ's. Where did you get the flange cut, and how much did it run you if you don't mind me asking?
Duke Schimmer
'72 2-Door 510
"Simplify and add lightness."
'72 2-Door 510
"Simplify and add lightness."
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
Hey Duke, I got it cut at a company called MILCO down in Huntington Beach. The part cost $190 (which was $35 less than another 2 quotes). But they had to take my tracing of the stock steel gasket, I opened up the outlet holes 1/16" all around so header tubes can pass thru, and make it a file that their computer could read. Pricey? I guess, but I had to have one.
- McShagger510
- Posts: 1821
- Joined: 26 Mar 2004 20:55
- Location: East Van, Canada
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
Looks great!
A really like that intake!! Do they have any more?
James
A really like that intake!! Do they have any more?
James
The person with the sun in their eyes has the right of way. - my brother
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
It might take a while to get, but it's from:
http://www.zccjdm.com
http://www.zccjdm.com
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
I got the motor in most of the way today, allot heavier and more cumbersome install to do alone.
I realized that the ZX gear box will not work however. The motor is sitting pretty flat right now, but given the shape of the oil pan, it is almost touching the cross member on the passenger side and has about a 2" gap on the driver side. I will need to shim up the passeger side thus making the gear box alignment that much worse. Given what you see, anyone chime in on what my gear box options might be?
I realized that the ZX gear box will not work however. The motor is sitting pretty flat right now, but given the shape of the oil pan, it is almost touching the cross member on the passenger side and has about a 2" gap on the driver side. I will need to shim up the passeger side thus making the gear box alignment that much worse. Given what you see, anyone chime in on what my gear box options might be?
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
would a Naps-Z bell housing be the right angle? the ZX bellhousing works, right, so it should.
I'm guessing the FJ sits fairly vertical with the oil pan parallel to the crossmember (the way it was meant to sit)... as do the Z-series.
I'm guessing the FJ sits fairly vertical with the oil pan parallel to the crossmember (the way it was meant to sit)... as do the Z-series.
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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shardik wrote: My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
what about modifing the mount on the drivers side?
byron wrote:I'd be all over that like a fat kid on a smartie.
okayfine wrote:Sense doesn't always have everything to do with it, and I speak from experience.
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
You can see from these pics that the engine should rotate another inch towards the drivers side, that would put the alignment with the ZX box off by close to 3". Too much to fudge as far as I can tell.
Re: N/A FJ20 Build
so does it/is it supposed to lean MORE than an L-series?
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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shardik wrote: My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.