
What time are you planning on coming through Whidbey? I am heading out to do some junk yarding tomorrow, so I would hate to miss you.
Thanks Ron. We actually camped at the campground just south of Ruby Beach. It was a super nice area! The beach sunsets there are pretty spectacular.RONSLYCHUK wrote:Hey Jordan,congrats on getting your dime done. You will enjoy the drive down to Portland. If you have time check out Voodoo Doughnuts in downtown Portland. If you have not been to the Olympic Penninsula before I think that you will see some awesome sights. Check out Ruby Beach for sure. Cheers Ron.
Thanks Bryan. The trip was pretty tight for timing. I would like to venture out that way sometime though!510tdi wrote:Since joining the Realm I 've enjoyed skimming through folks build threads and just caught up on yours last night. Super impressive. Not only because of the finished product but also the attention to detail and sheer tenacity to get it done. 5 years, right?.Congratolations! Have a great drive.
You ought to make a side trip out I-84 towards the Columbia River Gorge while you're here in the Portland. Great roads and views. You could even stop by our farm then give me a ride around the neighborhood in your dime. Just sayin'.
Drive skillfully,
Bryan
Thanks Joel. Quite a few waves and thumbs up! Haha the 18 hour shakedown turned into a lot more. This weekend was 1550 miles/2500km total! More on that soon.two_68_510s wrote:Nice job Jordan, you are a maniac! Getting any waves and shouts as you drive around?![]()
18 hour shakedown, eh?
I am sure you have rung that thing out in the last couple of weeks, have fun man, that looks like a dream drive to me!
What a gorgeous part of the planet.
To align the driveshaft, I shimmed up the trans mount as much as I could, moved the nose of the diff up as much as I could (shims beneath the diff), and put spacers above the moustache bar bushings to push the rear of the diff down until I ran out of threads on the moustache bar studs. The phasing should be a non issue since one end is CV or does it need to be aligned specifically with the U joint? I know when I put the CV half shafts together I ensured that the cages were lined up. Those symptoms you listed are definitely what I had before.housew wrote: dumb question though: when you say "align the driveshaft" so you changed the angles of the rear diff or trans to get it "aligned" OR your driveshaft yokes were out of phase?
I have a similarly annoying vibe, usually worse on deceleration (but not with the clutch in) so im thinking I need to reduce the downward angle preload (ie raise the nose of my diff). I've dealt with this in jeep world with a CV at the front of the driveshaft and a u-joint at the rear, and the goal is to align the pinion angle with the shaft angle for the least vibes. I haven't started digging at all yet, but your thread gets the gears in my head turning.
Thanks Rich. We would have loved to stop by but we couldn't make the Port Townsend to Coupeville ferry (5 hour wait was undoable) so we drove down and around but my friend still missed her carpool to Kamloops so we had a late night cannonball run on the Coquihalla to Kamloops. I had great fun driving Highway 8 and the Fraser Canyon this morning in the early am.goichi1 wrote:Man, I had to catch up your thread, It looks like you got it all together! Very cool stuff going on here. Yea, that was me that chopped out the fuel pump at Lake Stevens.![]()
What time are you planning on coming through Whidbey? I am heading out to do some junk yarding tomorrow, so I would hate to miss you.
The SEM stuff was ridiculously expensive up here so I ended up using some different (and Canadian woo!) products which seemed to work just fine. Thankfully my dash pad was not cracked into the foam so I didn't need the Great Stuff foam to fill and crevasses. I used 1 can of texture and a little bit of the urethane bumper repair epoxy as pictured below. A few sheets of 60-80 grit sandpaper and a sanding block are great tools to have as well.I bought the following products for this job:
“Great Stuff” foam sealant
SEM Bumper Repair (part #68422)
SEM Texture coating (part #39853)
SEM Plastic and Leather Prep (part#38353)
Step 1:
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the dash using the guide on Xenons130’s site: http://www.xenons130.com/dashremoval.html
Make sure you label everything – every bolt, every screw. Take lots of photos to document where things go, and how they go together. I did this, and over 3 months forgot certain steps (I had to remove and install the glove box 3 times to accommodate other parts I didn’t know needed to go on first!). Separate the foam dash portion from the metal part – all of the wire looms are connected to the metal portion of the dash. The foam part has a metal “core” and is flexible – be careful where you store it.
Step 2:
Ream out the cracks in the foam dash pad with a utility knife. Cracks on these dashes are not just straight fissures – the dash separates and the edges turn upwards as they pull apart, so you need to bevel the edges/cut them down so that the dash surface is LEVEL on both sides of the crack.
Step 3:
Clean the surface with compressed air. I used alcohol with a rag as well, since the dash was 3 decades old and wanted to get as much off the dash and exposed foam cracks as possible.
Step 4:
Fill the cracks with Great Stuff. Note, this will expand much more when it dries, so be careful. Don’t worry too much – you can cut it down when it dries. Better to have a little too much than too little. If your dash pad is cracked ALL THE WAY through, you may want to affix some painters tape on the underside to catch the foam and create a “base” for the foam to adhere to.
Step 5:
Cut the dried foam down to a level that is JUST below “flat” on the dash. The bubbly nature of the foam, while not solid, is actually really good for the bumper repair to adhere to. That said, you do want the foam level lower than the final dash level, since the bumper filler will account for some of the depth.
Step 6:
Once you’ve filled the cracks with Great Stuff and cut it down you’re ready to clean it again with compressed air, alcohol, and then fill in the small areas with SEM Bumper Repair. Use a putty knife or similar straight edge when doing this and WORK FAST – it does! Less is more and this dries fast. I didn’t realize this till later so I had to do more, but if I had to do it again, I’d apply smaller coats. I bought FOUR bottles/kits of this (about $8 each on Amazon.com) and it was just barely enough. At that price you might as well get 4 or 5….you may need it later
Step 7:
SAND. I used a Dremel Multi Max oscillating sanding tool and it was perfect for this. Patience is the name of the game here. Take your time. Less is more. Take time to clear the dust with air or a rag and run your hands over it to see if it’s smooth or has high points. Clean with alcohol and re-fill with SEM bumper filler where needed. Then sane again. This is the non-fun part and takes patience.
Step 8:
Prep and paint. Once you’re ready with the texture of the dash, spray the dash pad with the Plastic and Leather Prep from SEM and wipe with a clean rag to get dry. Then spray on the SEM texture coating and let dry. If you want, use something like 3M fine sanding pads to knock down the texture. I kept mine where it was with the can, since it covered up the imperfections I had. Had a done a better job with the surface I would have knocked it down more. Once you have done the texture coating to your liking, do NOT use the Plastic and Leather Prep again, as it will deteriorate the texture coating. Once the texture coating is to your liking, get painting! No real tips here, but less is more and take your time with several passes and about 12 inches of distance between the can and the dash. I also did some SEM clear coat after everything was done. Oh, and I prepped and painted the other trim on the dash (kick panels, under panels, steering wheel housing, etc.).