Hey all.
I have Troys coilovers and brakes. I took most of the front end apart this weekend since i finally got the car back from paint. My question is are these hubs pictured original 510? I have been looking over his site and a few others just for pics on how it all goes together and everyone seems to be using a different hub.
Seann
Ermish Wilwood / Coilover help
Re: Ermish Wilwood / Coilover help
Second question. Pic of my OE shock setup. Do i need to reuse any of the stuff or is his kit 100% complete? Sorry for the stupid questions but I am referencing carpartsmanual.com as i go and some of the pictures are quite different from what I have. Even the current calipers on my car seem different.
- Attachments
-
Re: Ermish Wilwood / Coilover help
I would contact troy and get instructions in case he did not send you.
Re: Ermish Wilwood / Coilover help
it depends on what you bought from him. I dont think he sells complete 510 front struts with coilovers. for the rear its a complete replacement. get that spring out of the xmember and call it a day. The fronts he'll do for you for a fee + shipping both ways Im sure.
4 door 72 510 -- gathering parts for KA-T project
Re: Ermish Wilwood / Coilover help
I doubt there are instructions. My biggest issue is the hub. Like I said mine look different than 90% of the pics I am seeing online for some reason? Most seem almost semi square in shape.
-
thisismatt
- Supporter
- Posts: 3438
- Joined: 22 Jul 2006 18:12
- Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Re: Ermish Wilwood / Coilover help
I believe he uses the stock 510 struts and cuts the perches off and replaces it with ones he has at the shop.
talk to him the other day about it. Sorry if im a little late on the post. Just registered so hihi to all!
talk to him the other day about it. Sorry if im a little late on the post. Just registered so hihi to all!
Re: Ermish Wilwood / Coilover help
If you got the whole front coil-over kit,
1. remove the insert from the strut tube by removing the big nut at the top of the tube.
2. cut the weld that holds on the lower spring seat from the strut tube. it's best to cut just above the weld, if you watch it really close you will see the rust layer when you cut through the seat.....just before you start to cut into the strut tube.
3. remove the lower seat by tapping it off with a hammer (after step two!) grind the old weld off smooth with the strut tube
4. if you bought his inserts too, then you take one of them and slide it down the tube, determine if you have to shorten the strut tube by measuring. The best way to do this is by putting a piece of masking tape on the polished part of the insert, the piston that comes out of the insert housing, place the tape at the base, where it comes out of the insert and make it about 5 inches or so up the piston, then slide the insert into the tube and install the big nut, with the insert resting on the bottom of the tube, put a mark on the tape even with the top of the strut tube nut, then lift the insert till the insert comes to a stop on the big nut, mark the tape here again, then remove the insert and measure between the marks, this is how much you need to cut out of the tube, just simply remove the tape from the insert and tape it to the strut tube BELOW the threaded end portion (it's already marked!). Then cut the tube using the marks on the tape and weld the threaded end back to the strut tube.
5. take the big washer(collar) that came in the kit and slide that down the tube, slide the threaded collar down the tube, it's best to make the threaded collar just under flush with the top of the strut tube, so it will allow you to tighten the top nut all the way down without interfering with the threaded collar....but it's up to you. then weld the big washer (lower collar) to the tube, install the treaded collar, spring, tophat, camber plate and you are done.
His kit is really easy to install, just takes time and little patience....and you need to know how to weld..or find someone that can. If you are using the stock inserts for your struts then you can skip step 4.
Tips: when you install the threaded collar, it will only be held together by the weight of the car, so it will rattle on the strut tube, some folks wrap a little electrical tape or something thin around the strut tube to make it fit a little more snug on the strut tube.
****Measure twice, cut once!!! *****
there is also a super great write up in one of the Dime Quarterly issues, I used it and it worked great....if you haven't already ordered them, you should! they really come in handy.
If anyone see's anything I missed or explained incorrectly feel free to speak up!!
1. remove the insert from the strut tube by removing the big nut at the top of the tube.
2. cut the weld that holds on the lower spring seat from the strut tube. it's best to cut just above the weld, if you watch it really close you will see the rust layer when you cut through the seat.....just before you start to cut into the strut tube.
3. remove the lower seat by tapping it off with a hammer (after step two!) grind the old weld off smooth with the strut tube
4. if you bought his inserts too, then you take one of them and slide it down the tube, determine if you have to shorten the strut tube by measuring. The best way to do this is by putting a piece of masking tape on the polished part of the insert, the piston that comes out of the insert housing, place the tape at the base, where it comes out of the insert and make it about 5 inches or so up the piston, then slide the insert into the tube and install the big nut, with the insert resting on the bottom of the tube, put a mark on the tape even with the top of the strut tube nut, then lift the insert till the insert comes to a stop on the big nut, mark the tape here again, then remove the insert and measure between the marks, this is how much you need to cut out of the tube, just simply remove the tape from the insert and tape it to the strut tube BELOW the threaded end portion (it's already marked!). Then cut the tube using the marks on the tape and weld the threaded end back to the strut tube.
5. take the big washer(collar) that came in the kit and slide that down the tube, slide the threaded collar down the tube, it's best to make the threaded collar just under flush with the top of the strut tube, so it will allow you to tighten the top nut all the way down without interfering with the threaded collar....but it's up to you. then weld the big washer (lower collar) to the tube, install the treaded collar, spring, tophat, camber plate and you are done.
His kit is really easy to install, just takes time and little patience....and you need to know how to weld..or find someone that can. If you are using the stock inserts for your struts then you can skip step 4.
Tips: when you install the threaded collar, it will only be held together by the weight of the car, so it will rattle on the strut tube, some folks wrap a little electrical tape or something thin around the strut tube to make it fit a little more snug on the strut tube.
****Measure twice, cut once!!! *****
there is also a super great write up in one of the Dime Quarterly issues, I used it and it worked great....if you haven't already ordered them, you should! they really come in handy.
If anyone see's anything I missed or explained incorrectly feel free to speak up!!
Re: Ermish Wilwood / Coilover help
Just a tip:
To make the threaded collars on my coil overs fit more snugly over the strut tube I used a large yogurt container and trimmed in into a sleeve that fits between the two pieces.
Works great and should never rattle.
To make the threaded collars on my coil overs fit more snugly over the strut tube I used a large yogurt container and trimmed in into a sleeve that fits between the two pieces.
Works great and should never rattle.
"Those people who think they know everything are a great annoyance to those of us who do."
-Isaac Asimov
-Isaac Asimov