2.3L of fun

[icehouse]

Maybe it's my disk combo but I like a heavy flywheel and I really like the S15 twin disk clutch. Feels like stock but holds the power. I just don't see the point of a lightened flywheel. Our racecar has a stock flywheel and it's fine. I always rev match. I just don't see the point of a light flywheel I guess.

[510rob]

Maybe it's my disk combo but I like a heavy flywheel and I really like the S15 twin disk clutch. Feels like stock but holds the power. I just don't see the point of a lightened flywheel. Our racecar has a stock flywheel and it's fine. I always rev match. I just don't see the point of a light flywheel I guess.

such a hater

[funwithmonkeys]

Really to each his own. I have driven quite a few cars now with light flywheels and have not had a problem. The BMW with a button disc and 5.5 clutch was silly but other than that they weren't bad.

[RMS]

I like a heavy flywheel on my stock L. no power to spin and induce over steer so having the option to get bent with hard downshifts is a plus.

[bertvorgon]

I Really think what is lost here is that NONE of us have a REAL race motors.

You have to watch Collin, and the level he is at, where lightning fast shifts are the balance..both for the car..and keeping ahead of the guy behind you....the throttle response is incredible.

As part of any truly serious race program, looking at every piece on the car and it's potential weight, is all part of the "package" and reducing any weight where you can, is also so important.

Better to ballast the car UP to legal weight.....

[510rob]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Az_gECAGXvE 0:54

[gooned]

lol

[bertvorgon]

I have to laugh....Thanks Rob......

[funwithmonkeys]

Well I replaced the clutch and flywheel with new parts. 12lb chromoly flywheel and 225mm 6 puck metallic sprung clutch and pressure plate. The total savings are 4lb over the existing ones. Unfortunately if has a small vibration above 7k so it looks like I will be taking them back out and getting them balanced. Does anyone know a place to get this done?
I have also been having voltage issues with the car since the alternator died. I am on the 3rd try and I am now sure it is not the alternator causing the issue. Running it is putting out a rock steady 15.5V. It is the same with 3 different alternators. I have gone through all the troubleshooting I can think of so I am stumped. With it running the sense wire is showing 15.5V, the battery is seeing 15.49V and there is only .1v fluctuation from 1200rpm to 7500rpm. All the grounds are good, there is less then 1ohm between all of them. Anyone have any ideas?

[510rob]

Some random thoughts...

15.5V is too much and will boil a battery dry.

How confident are you that your meter is reasonably accurate or not?

Where do you have the voltage reference line connected?

How is the alternator grounded to the wiring harness?

Do you have a diode inline with the lamp terminal?

[funwithmonkeys]

Hey Rob,
I am using 2 different multimeters. A very expensive fluke and a cheap motomaster. They both read the same. I also logged it on the ecu. I am sure they are accurate. The reference line I have tested from the harness and direct from the post on the alternator. The alternator is grounded direct to the stock point on the passenger fender and I have also ran a wire direct to the battery for testing. I am not sure about the diode. It is going through the stock wiring. Where would it be?

[bertvorgon]

Only time I ever had an over voltage scenario, was when my alternator diode pack failed, sending the charge voltage to 17+ volts.

I know it hit that as I had to send my ESCORT radar detector back to the factory as the 17 volt internal fuse blew in the detector, and, as Rob said, started to nuke my battery, of which you can still see to this day as the cells started to boil off and spit acid onto the 1/4 panel inside the trunk.

We had the same scenario during an Enduro one year, cooking Tracey's battery

[icehouse]

My guess is it's the jumper plug you made (or bought) where the regulator used to be isn't making a good connection and sending a bad voltage reference to the alternator.

[funwithmonkeys]

The pigtail I made is 3" long. It reads as almost 0 ohm resistance. If check it is shows 15.5v the same as the line coming from the stock wiring. A 1v drop over a 3" wire is pretty big. Some part of the pigtail would get hot. Mine does not.

[icehouse]

The pigtail I made is 3" long. It reads as almost 0 ohm resistance. If check it is shows 15.5v the same as the line coming from the stock wiring. A 1v drop over a 3" wire is pretty big. Some part of the pigtail would get hot. Mine does not.

I'm not sure how much power the voltage reference pulls or the bulb, so I'm not sure how burning hot it would get. I was just guessing a loose connection since it's the only other connector besides where it plugs into the alt. Does the voltage reference going into the alt read 15.5v?