The 510 Realm

Did you do any dyno pulls before and after? Curious to how (if any) restrictive the mesh are vs none or filters.

As it's coming to the end of the year, my employer are telling me to take leave, or lose it (we get a good amount over here in the UK) so I've had a couple day off this week to work on the car. Problem is, the weather has been crap and I don't want to be in the garage, so a few rides on the turbo trainer to keep the legs and heart working and then a day in the garage.

Frustrating would sum it up. Some days are good days and I feel like I'm making progress, others, I feel like I've bitten off far more than I can chew. I'm past the point now where I'll never get back when I've put into it financially, so by finishing it, I might get some enjoyment back from it and the illusion of time not lost. So on we go.

The rear end is a mess, it needs a lot of work, I have ordered a pair of trailer fenders to use for my inner rear fenders as mine were poorly cut for the over fenders, they were supposed to arrive but didn't. I need to buy new trunk drops, once I do that, I have all the rear parts needed other than some sheet metal to make a few patches here and there. Once the strength is back in the shell, I get get it up on the rotisserie and strip the underside. Before that, I need to lose weight from the front, engine out and all the other bits.

Pulled apart the steering, I need to buy new ball joints and tie rod ends. What's the difference between RHD and LHD or are they all the same? The drag link is different I know that and they can't be built so may have to look to Australia for one. I already have poly bushes in the idler arm but I have replacements for there too and will try re oil the steering box and adjust it to sort out the slop.

This pile of junk will need refurbishing and putting back on

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More parts in the junk pile that won't be refurbished and re used

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Cut the spare wheel well out, it got some water in and started to rust out. Not needed anyway so will put some flat 1.5mm sheet to close it off. you can see the 'tide marks' on the fuel cell

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This pile of junk is to be kept. Thankfully plastic doesn't rust

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This upsets me, not sure how to tackle it really.

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Yes it is scary to me too, just was there recently on my project. Best advice I can give is to cut back until you have a solid mounting surface then start the rebuild process. Not like I am any expert tho...

I would have thought there would be places that rebuild drag links in the UK? I had mine rebuilt here in NZ in a couple of days. They convert to the non-drilled type of joint so you have to run nylocs but that's no biggie.

broke wrote: ↑18 Nov 2018 13:50 I would have thought there would be places that rebuild drag links in the UK? I had mine rebuilt here in NZ in a couple of days. They convert to the non-drilled type of joint so you have to run nylocs but that's no biggie.

Yes, valid point. I didn't even think about that. Thanks I'll look into it.

66DUCE wrote: ↑18 Nov 2018 10:09 Yes it is scary to me too, just was there recently on my project. Best advice I can give is to cut back until you have a solid mounting surface then start the rebuild process. Not like I am any expert tho...

Any pictures of the work you did? (I'll search your posts in a min) what gets me is the lower part of the inner rocker where you spot weld the outer rocker onto. Through time, rust, damage and me drilling out the old spot welds has warped it so much it's probably beyond repair. I don't want to remove the inner rocker, can the lower part be cut off and replaced? I might need to ship it out to a professional.

KiKi look about half way down on page 4 of my build and you will see the process I took to rebuild the inner rockers. Lots of time and energy to make sure I don't make a mistake. I too spent hours looking at other builds to come up with a strategy to start the rebuild process. Yes the metal is thin and may need to be hammer/dolly to straighten it back out. Many years of these cars not being lifted properly/ curb damage can cause the rockers to be bent in the first place let alone removal of the rocker itself.

I've had suspicions my suspension is from an AE86, the brakes look a lot like the ones from this model, the disks and pads match up and some 'modification 'has been done to the steering arms to space them from the 510's 80mm to the 86's 85mm





More parts to buy.

I’ve not updated this in a while. Still more new parts arriving and more parts to buy.
Decided over Christmas that I’ll never finish it so have shipped it out to be done. I’ll update when there’s updates

Those who are on IG and follow me would have seen the updates recently. Work has finally started on the Coupe!

oooh, very nice, no idea why i find this so satisfying.

Respect Kiki! I also would have no idea where to start. But looks very promising!

Doraemon wrote: ↑28 Feb 2021 07:37 Respect Kiki! I also would have no idea where to start. But looks very promising!

I pondered for 5 years, then took it to the professionals for a year of procrastination Hopefully it should come together over the next couple of months and be ready to bolt all the toys back on.

Looks like they're getting on with things now.























Hopefully not much longer of this and they'll be ready for paint.

It looks like they are doing good work.

Slow progress, but still progress:











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Still lots to do, rear valance needs putting back on, few holes in the tail light panel need patching, custom flat boot/trunk floor to sink the ATL cell into. Couple rust spots on the C and A pillars and modify the front inner arches to allow for wheel clearance as the x8-6 rub slightly.

488 days in.

Hi mate. Awesome build, I’m loving seeing your work. I’ve just started a rebuild on a Coupe in Aus, and have very similar rust issues. Would you have any photos of the rear of the sill how you finished it to the wheel well? Preferably before you re skinned it..
Cheers. Andrew.