BlueXfour

[RMS]

time to start my most ambitious project......the Bluex4

I will start with this blue on blue 4dr I got from Jason in trade for a blue 521.






with the car being imported from Washington state it will have to be buttoned up right to get past inspection then disassembled and modified

I will start with rust and paint then drop this prepped L20b and stick a 5spd behind it.


end game: build a 4wd 510 with high and low range supporting stock suspension. it will not be a 510 siting on a toyota or jeep frame.

I hope to run a 720 T case and front diff with subaru cv's and struts, supporting 31s on 6 bolt wheels. to make life easy I will cut the nose and fire wall off of the 2dr 510 septic tank lid and work the suspension and diff placement on the body cut. I would like to find a divorced T case with an inter axle diff but all I can come up with is a np205 that will take up the passenger seat base and weighs in @ 200lbs

I will need to buy a subaru dl, gl, or loyal or part out the datsuru

first thing I need is measurements of the 720 t case or a better option...something with a 2.5to1, inter axle diff and lockup. synchro's between hi and lo would be nice too.

[Track Junky]

ooooooh!! I love Frankenstein builds, lets do this!!

Scott.

[two_68_510s]

wildman!

[RMS]

tore into the engine bay, stripped it down to the brakes then started probing with the 5in1 tool to find there is no rust repair. striped the drivers fender, knocked off the under coat.....no rust. moved onto the rocker end...no rust. passenger side fender dose not want to come off. the fender to valance screws are encapsulated in under coat and the rocker pinch rail is folded over the lower fender bolt. I moved on to pulling the dash as someone monkeyed with the harness hack and splice for stereo, rewired headlights and auto to manual jumping. I will grab a more complete unmolested manual dash off the pile. with the dash gone I started to remove the aftermarket tinfoil covered chewing gum sound proofing carp. even with the temp just above freezing it was a nasty sticky mess that once removed reveled a mass of poultice corrosion from firewall to seat base. she's not looking like much of a welding project. I will turn the car around today and work on the passenger side pinch rail..... maybe I will find some rust work.

[two_68_510s]

sounds good so far

[dodgydan]

COOL I'm watching.

[RMS]

something funny going on with the passenger side lower frame rail. no evidence of a pull or impact to passenger door pillar. I hope it does not need to go on the frame machine

[Three B's Racing]

Ohhhh! I see a bent frame rail. Looks like a visit to the frame machine sorry!!

[two_68_510s]

Seems like it would have to be a low passenger side impact. What is the filler situation in the lower a-pillar/rocker area?

[Byron510]

So Robyn, I'd love to discuss your project here overall. I was hoping to catch you at the club Christmas party last night, but no worries (and yes I did bring an 510 )

So are you going to build a 4WD 510 or an AWD 510? If you are talking divorced transfer case, I'm thinking you are shooting for a 4WD.

You stated that you will not be putting this car on a truck frame, so you'll be working on a unit body construction.

Are we to assume the engine will be in the standard place? If so then you'll be putting the front diff right below the engine. Seems logical, and I see the use of a 720 4x4 oil pan and diff to get the diff up higher. Obviously your cross member will need to be custom, as a diff will now run through it. So you'll have a diff and engine mount cross member somehow.

Ok, on to the front suspension. Are you going struts or double A arm or did I totally get this wrong and you'll be using 2 strait axles on this build? In either case, where do you plan to mount the front suspension? The reason I ask is that the bent frame rail quickly becomes a moot point as it's likely in the way in the first place.

Love to hear more about the basics of your project planning.

Byron

[RMS]

yup I was pretty pissed I failed to make it to the 510 xmass party

what I'd like to build is a 4wd 510 with an inter axle diff for 4wd hard surface action and front disconnect for hwy/economy. the biggest hurtle is finding a short light T case with an inter axle diff. the np203 could work but is over kill, heavy and with no matching yokes or splines. landrover has a Tcase with HI-lo and inter axle diff but it is very long when adapted to a T5. so for ease and simplicity I will start with the 720 Tcase as the yokes and splines should match and it plugs into my 5spd....... 3.90 + 2to1 in 4th + 29in tire @ 6000rpm = 89mph

it will be a passenger side drop with the Tcase mounted under the passenger seat and the diff to the right of the crank. I will make a tunnel(or expand the stock tunnel) for the front drive shaft. some creative linkage to a twin stick so I can go 2wd low.




now the fun bit: the front end.... the plan is to use the subaru dl gl loyal or xt struts, brakes(stock front ebrake), hubs(common mod drill for chev 6bolt then adapters on the rear), springs(147lbs interchange with stock 510) and top hats (same 3 bolt spacing as the 510)
I will take the side gears from the subaru r160 and swap them into the 720's r160f and vice versa. then the subaru cv's will drop in(maybe one rear inner on the drivers side). subaru has the pressed in style balljoints so I will cut and splice subaru arms to datsun arms. the steering arms are cast into the front of the knuckles allowing me to move the steering rack forward of the xmember and out of the way of the cv's.(putting a engine mount in the way of the steering shaft.) subaru uses both a powered and a non powered rack.
now the dl,gl...are 4 inches wider than a stock 510 from backing plate to backing plate. im running 1.5in longer arms to get the meager height of 6inches of rust, so 2in a side is doable. as im a little sketched to be cutting into the lower frame rails to make travel room for the cv's Ive been entertaining a 2in to 6in "body lift"(welded in sub) between the stock members and relocating the TC rod mounts said distance.
I will get a better Idea once I cut up this 2dr shell and start mocking things up.

this will be my first non stock Frankenstein build so if anything looks unsafe or sketchy please say something

[RMS]

moving right along on the body, floors are scabbed in, rockers patched, 1/4s banged out and butted in place. the tool holder in the trunk was toast. sprayed a pint of zero rust from toe to trunk then sealed it with 2L of paintable undercoat via beach towel and bucket.
did a similar process 7years ago on 6inches that has held through snow, Ice, salt, gravel and daily driving.



I found the air hammer with a spot weld cutter bit !!turned way way down!! is great for removing that nasty sticky sound deadening stuff.
worked so well I tried it on the factory sound proofing had an entire wagon striped down to scuzz on the primer in 15 minutes and I didn't even cut the floor once .... on the wagon.