The 510 Realm

How about machining a thin O- ring groove in the adapters on the outer edge ?

So the new Ermish CV kit does have built-in grease fittings which is nice. Also while there are 4 bungs (right word?) for the grease only two have the fittings while the others just have a plug. Troy mentioned that it was to avoid the inner fittings being ripped out from low ground clearance and I would need to transfer the fittings back and forth to apply grease as necessary.

Take the existing adapter and run a jobber length tap drill through the side of the adapter into the taper. Tap for a zerk fitting. Apply red bottle loctite to the zerk threads and you have a place to pump grease.

Why are grease fittings on cvs a good thing? Read an FSM... there's a specified amount of grease that should be in the boots and when they don't leak if sealed properly. Case in point as mentioned by chickenman. I would not be regreasing CVs even if they had zerks. Too much grease and it'll squeeze its way out somehow and make a mess.

I like Monte's comment about an O ring seal for ease of dissassembly and reusabilty.

Pretty sure the VW/Audi gaskets will work as well. There are various sizes available from VW/Audi and other vendors

Gasket for 90mm CV :

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Qu ... Axles/CV/2

There is also a smaller one for the driveshaft, but I can't seem to find the mm size at the moment.

Then there is E-Bay. A little research should be able to find the right size:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... s&_sacat=0

JordanTr wrote:Why are grease fittings on cvs a good thing? Read an FSM... there's a specified amount of grease that should be in the boots and when they don't leak if sealed properly. Case in point as mentioned by chickenman. I would not be regreasing CVs even if they had zerks. Too much grease and it'll squeeze its way out somehow and make a mess.

I like Monte's comment about an O ring seal for ease of dissassembly and reusabilty.

Agree 100%. Properly sealed, a CV Joint is pretty much greased for a lifetime on a street car. Road Race cars, Drag Cars and Rally cars are a different matter.

Chickenman wrote:

JordanTr wrote:Why are grease fittings on cvs a good thing? Read an FSM... there's a specified amount of grease that should be in the boots and when they don't leak if sealed properly. Case in point as mentioned by chickenman. I would not be regreasing CVs even if they had zerks. Too much grease and it'll squeeze its way out somehow and make a mess.

I like Monte's comment about an O ring seal for ease of dissassembly and reusabilty.

Agree 100%. Properly sealed, a CV Joint is pretty much greased for a lifetime on a street car. Road Race cars, Drag Cars and Rally cars are a different matter.

I as well so then why would Troy suggest his kits be regreased annually? I'll be getting those gaskets for Empi Type 2 CV's.

Probably a knee jerk reaction without really understanding the problem... if there's no grease, we'll just add a way for it to get in.

That sounds like a good first step Lou.

Anyone else getting a redirect to VIG LINK shopping channel when you clicked on the link in my post from July,8th?

Same link as below. Should take you direct to ECS Tuning.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Qu ... Axles/CV/2

Rock Auto should have them too if you can nail down the OEM application. Then you won't have to pay the ECS markup.

FWIW most people here just use the OE Nissan CV's out of R31/C32/910/R32 etc with no hassles - just shorten and respline the CV shaft.

I've yet to hear of a failure from them. I've often wondered if the reason I keep reading about these US style CV conversions failing is that they use a Birfield type CV and that maybe doesn't allow enough movement of the axle in and out of the joint on severely lowered cars compared to the Nissan tripod style CV.

Just my 2c.

Yes, I've heard that myself. Talking to some other Z owners from NZ and AU, that seems to be the way you fellows " Do it in a Datsun ". I think it's just a Regional thing.

If I convert my 280Z I'll use the Nissan Tripod style as well. Right now the old faithfull U-joints are working just fine, but the car is not lowered a bunch at the moment. That will change.

broke wrote:FWIW most people here just use the OE Nissan CV's out of R31/C32/910/R32 etc with no hassles - just shorten and respline the CV shaft.

I've yet to hear of a failure from them. I've often wondered if the reason I keep reading about these US style CV conversions failing is that they use a Birfield type CV and that maybe doesn't allow enough movement of the axle in and out of the joint on severely lowered cars compared to the Nissan tripod style CV.

Just my 2c.

I was under the impression that the ball in cage birfield style accommodated more angularity than the tripod styles. I think you are right that there is tons of axial movement allowance on the tripod half shafts. The sliding joint on the birfield joints offers ample axial movement... ask me how I know!

Confirmed with Troy that his CV Axle Kit may need around 7 or 8 pumps of grease annually. Already have some grease spatter on my coilovers which is normal per Troy. Spoke with Baz at Datsport, MadDat, and The Driveshaft Shop. They all said that the kits they make or did make (Baz) don't require any yearly maintenance and should not be leaking any grease as they are fully sealed. Hmmm...

I know who I wouldn't buy my cv kit from!