Stu's 1972 4 Door

[510rob]

Is that what I think it is? Is that the fusible link?

[Stu]

Stu, absolutely amazing work! Thanks for sharing all the details - the dash and wiring look awesome! Congratulations!

Thanks. Tidy wiring makes me happy.

You sir have amazing detail skills!!!!! Your build is so inspiring!

Thanks. I'm sure I have gone half-assed on stuff I have not shown

Is that what I think it is? Is that the fusible link?

Nope. It is the trigger wire for the radiator fan and it was a bit long so I had to loop it back so it does sort of look like a fusible link, good eye

[Stu]

Since I am a glutton for punishment, I went with hydraulic power steering and now need to connect the stock SR20 PS pump and reservoir to the Toyota power rack. I got M16 and M17 adapters to -6 AN for the rack (they use o ring sealed cones to seat against the adapter). The hose is Earls -6 PS hose with 90 deg and straight adapters. I figured out I needed a couple of 45 deg fittings and Earls (Holley) has been out of 45 deg adapters forevvvvvvver. I settled and bought some Fragola fittings. While these two brands are interchangeable, The Earls are much better quality. The Fragola parts work, but the Earls are just made better and go together much smoother.

To connect to the SR20 PS pump, I used Chase Bays M18 Banjo Bolt Restrictor for Nissan Power Steering Pumps and their banjo to -6 AN.



The barb on the reservoir for the return is just a bit bigger than the ID of the -6 hose and that hose does not stretch. I took one of the 90 deg fittings, removed the nut, and ground down the OD until it snuggly fit in the old return line. A short section and two clamps later, a nice clean return line.







I did not remove the Toyota AE86 rack from the donor car so don't have a reference as to which port was pressure and return. The pressure port is supposed to be the smaller fitting and on this rack it appears that the lower is the pressure port. If you know better, please let me know.



I also added heat sleeve over the lines since they are close enough to the exhaust that a little bit of protection can't hurt.



One step closer to starting the motor and seeing what leaks

[Pista_510]

The usual plumbing convention for most R&P gears made in the US and Japan is "FART" - "fluid always returns top"...looks like you've plumbed it correctly.

[Stu]

The usual plumbing convention for most R&P gears made in the US and Japan is "FART" - "fluid always returns top"...looks like you've plumbed it correctly.

Thanks for the feedback and a great way to remember. A fart is always funny and sometimes educational

[Stu]

The 'last thing' I needed to finish before attempting a start was the mounting and routing for the MAF.

I used a 2.5" Spectre 9280 CAI Cold Air Intake System 75 Degree Elbow, 2.5 x 2.5 silicone connector, 2.5 x 2.75 silicone connector, a RR-3003 K&N filter (3" inside flange, 5" tall), a 3D printed transition, and a 84x4mm O ring to plumb the MAF. I also reused the vapor valve thingy to capture the vapor from the charcoal canister and direct it to the intake. I built a bracket that mounted to the MAF to the old horn mounts with rubber isolators.





I wanted the PCV system to be connected to the intake (vs just putting a filter on it and letting it vent under the hood) and the air idle system needed to be connected too. I got a local welder to weld on some aluminum nipples that I harvested from AC lines.





If it looks like everything is reallllly close to all the other stuff, it is



With the MAF in, I checked all of the fluids over and over and over and decided to try and start it. I removed power to the ECU and cranked it over until I got oil pressure and fuel through the lines. Repower to the ECU, check for any leaks one last time...

it is ALIVE!

It was a great day to say the least

[RONSLYCHUK]

Congratulations on the start up! The engine bay looks amazing.

[gooned]

Wow, super impressed in the details here, exciting to have it Alive!

[72ultraorange]

Stu, AWESOME WORK man that is Kuztom! Congratulations!

[iceman510]

Such a great feeling and a relief when the engine starts for the first time. Congratulations.

[bradicuss]

Way to go Stu! Congrats. Getting close to driving it?.....there was that mound of wires to work thru.

[ostaylor]

Well done Stu - very excited for you. I feel like that is a very long way away for me... but it gives me hope! :^)

[Stu]

Thanks everyone for the kudos. I am hoping to have this thing on the road by the spring. I still don't have the doors mounted so it is easier to work on and need to fix some runs. I need to do the exhaust next, then move onto the interior, then the doors.

While there is no carpet I decided to add a dead pedal. Not having something to rest your foot on makes longer drives really uncomfortable.

I dug around at the pick-n-pull looking for dead pedals and after grabbing a few that looked interesting, I settled on one from a mid-80s Nissan 200SX. It is skinny with decent bracing that could be modified to mount into the floor/wheel well 'easily'. I trimmed off the side/lower mount, bent up some flat stock, welded it to the bottom, painted, and mounted. Since the bolts go into the wheel well, I used button head bolts mounted from the outside so if a tire does rub, it will be less prone to catch.

[Nerius]

That's a terrific idea!

[iceman510]

Nice touch.