The Bronze EFI bits.....

[bertvorgon]

I will get in there at lunch and measure the pulleys, do you want the water pump too?

[Byron510]

Ok, I'm sure you know better thats why I asked, I just figured that the "adjustER" would bind at that much of an angle. looks beautiful though. Just cause I am curious, how much do you charge for one of those custom cast manifolds?

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner zumm510. Lately I've been using every waking hour left after my family to get this project done.
I do sell these manifolds. I have the casting done locally and do the machine work myself. I have two EFI intake manifolds left for sale, like the one used on this project. This will probably be the last run, as there isn't much interest in FI an L series 4 cyl. I need to cast them in batches of ten - minimum - to make it even feasible at the price of $375 CDN. If you are interested, just send a PM.
Byron

[Byron510]

Why not Keith, my water pump pulley has already been made, I wouldn't mind figuring out the ratios anyways. I'll do yours at the same time.
Byron

[bertvorgon]

Ok, so, the crank pulley is about 5", single pulley with integral harmonic balancer. My water pump pulley is 6", and of course the alternator is 4". The voltage JUST drops off at my idle, which is about 1,100 RPM, as soon as I touch the throttle and add 100 RPM, the voltage comes right up to normal output. All diameters are of course the outside measurement, with the pully grove just below that. Hope that helps.

[510rob]

I split the DOHC SOHC head discussion into a new thread and put the posts HERE

[Byron510]

OK Mr. Vorgon,
I’ve completed the pulley math for us both.

Using:
D = Drive pulley Dia.
d = Driven pulley Dia.
S = Speed of Drive pulley
s = Speed of Driven pulley

And the formula D=(dXs)/S

“The Bronze” car:
D (crank)= 4.5”
dw (water pump) = 5”
da (stock alternator) = 2 7/8”

At 5500 Engine RPM (max sustained cruising speed), I get a water pump rpm of 4950 and an alternator rpm of 8608.
At 7500 RPM (probably above redline for my more less stock but cammed 2.2 motor) I get 6750 at the pump and 11739 at the alt.
I like this, I haven’t exceeded the 12000 RPM suggested max that was recommended.
As a side note, at 1100 engine rpm, I get 1721 rpm at the alternator, 900 engine rpm nets 1408 at the alternator, and this should keep it charging at idle or barely above.

Mr. Vorgon’s killer positive atmosphere Rolling Dyno:
D = 5”
dw = 6”
da = 4”

At 5500 rpm we get 4583 at the pump and 6875 at the alternator
At 8000 rpm (I think I read in some previous post that you run to or above this for that occasional blip) we get 6666 at the pump and 10000 at the alt. So you are also well with in design parameters.
Just as a side note, at 1100 engine rpm, your alternator is spinning at 1375 on your car, at 900 engine rpm your alternator is doing 1125 rpm. I think your machine idles somewhere in that range, no?

Hope this helps everyone.

Byron

[bertvorgon]

Thanks Byron, that is interesting. Yes, my idle as about 1,100 RPM. When Dave and I put the large alt. pulleys on, that instantly stopped the diode packs/internals from vibrating/grenading themselves, when we slalomed full time. Both of us used to run pretty much 7,500 RPM at most of the slaloms. So, looking at your calcs, the small alt was REALLY spinning with the stock pulley. I have seen no bad effects from the large water pump pulley. my car has always not been really happy in slow/stopped traffic, likely more a function, or lack of, of the small electric fan moving enough air over a large area of the rad. I need a better fan.

[Byron510]

A little closer to complete today:
I machined up the last pulley this afternoon after work - for the alternator. With the math I posted earlier, I made it 75mm in diameter, a hair under 3" (2.95"). I liked the Alt RPM at idle, it will be charging at idle, or just barely above. If it doesn't work, I can always make a different pulley to suit. I'll keep the sketch in my srcap book, I have enough material to make a few more (even without the half that Rob owns!!)

[Byron510]

I also did a trial fit of the knock sensor. I will use a steel bushing to adapt the 3/8 NPT down to the ¼ NPT that the sensor has, and will mount the works in the back water drain hole in the back of the passenger side of the block. I think I will stop the water from touching the sensor by machining a little aluminum plug, and press and stake it into place. In this way, the sensor “well” will be a dry socket, and corrosion won’t be an issue.

[Byron510]

The last part was a trial fit of the water temp sensor. I’m not sure if this is the spot that
I want to locate this part. I need some more background info on weather or not to run the little ¼” water hose that goes from the water outlet pipe just above the alternator to the thermostat housing.
There have been two schools of thought here; both say that some flow needs to happen before the thermostat opens.
Method #1 is to enlarge the By-pass hole in the thermostat (my current method in my 2.2: no hose and a 1/8” hole in the thermostat).
Method #2 is to run this by-pass hose. Both methods allow a certain amount of water to circulate while the engine comes up to temperature. If this is not done in some way, and you have no circulation at all, the water in the head can reach well over 220 deg before the water near the thermostat reaches 180 degrees and opens the thermostat (assuming this is the thermostat temp that you are running). In any event, it’s very high heat, then the sudden rush of really cold water travels through the system when the thermostat does open. This is very hard on your head, block and gaskets. I once ran this “no circulation” method, and also ran a large auto meter gauge. You could watch a spike in the water temp go from 180-220, then back to 160 in a mater of three to four seconds. Now I drill the hole...

The last thing that got done today was I heated up 6" long section of the entire header just below the #3 cylinder, and gave the header a little tweak away from the block so that there are no interference problems. I guess I need to blast the header now, as the chrome, which was previously marginal in looks, is now totally destroyed in this area - it had to be done! A bit of glass bead should make the surface rough enough to accept some header paint. As impractical as it is, I've always likes white headers... we’ll see when the time comes. This won't happen for a while yet.

Now, onto the TPS body mount…
Byron

[Byron510]

Another day, and another component.
This turned out to be easier than I had first anticipated.
I started with the shaft mount (which I machined up last week) and the old carb. I knew that I wanted all the bits to bolt on, and since I’m not proficient at welding aluminum, I knew I had the make the part out of one piece.
So out came a file folder, and I made, after much deliberation, a template of what I wanted the bracket to look like.
I then traced the template onto a sheet of 1/8” 5052 sheet, and cut it out with a jig saw (it’s really fast this way).

[Byron510]

Next I drilled the hole for the countersunk throttle position sensor. I then placed the part in the interesting, but very effective “press brake” that my co-worker (whom is a very proficient welder and Datsun 1200 guy) Sean had made a couple years ago. It works awesome, and it’s a good use for the otherwise unused arbor press that the shop has.
I then drilled the four mounting holes in to mount to the old carb, and drilled and tapped the holes that will hold the TPS to the bracket.

[Byron510]

To finish the works off, I drilled some lightening holes – for looks obviously- in the otherwise flat area of the bracket, draw filed the edges and de-burred the holes.
Another project finished.
Byron

[duke]

Awesome progress. You shold machine up a cover for the float bowls out of aluminum to clean up the look some. I am also wondering on how you are planning on using the comp header on a LZ22, won't it hit the floor because of the tall deck height?

[Byron510]

Yep, the floor is going to need some work, I don't look forward to that, but it'll be happening soon.
I did think about machining up some custom finned covers for the float bowls, but to be honest, I don't have the time. And since the "old carbs" are temporary, it may not even be worth the time at this point.
Byron