Stu's 1972 4 Door

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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Stu »

Well, here is another build thread.

I hope to be helpful by being able to add good pictures and part numbers so others can duplicate or modify any changes I do to my car when I deviate from stock.

Purchased a 72 4 door from southern Oregon, and for a 510, it is pretty rust free. The rear was in some sort of collision in its life and they did a crap job of repair. I am committed to replacing both rear quarters, both trunk side drops, the tail light surround, and the lower valance. The trunk floor is rust free but still a bit wrinkled. Once everything is apart, I think I can pull/hammer it more flat. The price was good enough to justify replacing these parts.

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The plan:
  • complete strip and rebuild of body, suspension, and interior
  • SR20DE with 5 speed
  • 280ZX front struts and brakes
  • Rear disk brakes
  • coil over front and rear
  • power steering rack and pinion
  • Corbeau GTS II type seats
  • retractable 3-point seat belts
  • Speed Hut Gauges
  • 15" Rota wheels
I am a fan of 'basic' looking cars but upgraded to be comfortable and modern function. Sort of a resto-mod rather then an total custom.

-Stu

If you want to skip to a particular subject, here is an index of sorts:

510 Heater Rebuild
510 Radiator hoses with CX Racing SR20 radiator
Hood struts
510 EFI in tank pump conversion
510 Parking Brake Mechanism Rebuild
Shortening 280ZX struts for the 510
Half-Shaft Rebuild
FS5W71C Transmission Cross Member mount with SR20DE
Transmission tunnel cover
Strut assembly and TSR Fab top hat bearing housing
Power steering rack and pinion intermediate shaft
Sealing the cowl area
Hood Release clean-up
Engine bay prep
Rusty floor repair
510 dash metal fill panel refinish
Datsun 510 Rear crossmember and rear control arm bushing removal
Datsun 510 rear control arm clean up
Rear crossmember exhaust tube enlargement
Datsun 510 mustache bar bushing removal
Modifying Corbeau Sport Seats
510 Mustache Bar and Rear Control Arm bushings
Rear Control Arm Bearing and Stub Shaft Install
510 R160 Differential reseal
510 Dashboard refinish/paint
Dual Bezel gauge cluster for Speedhut Gauges
510 Rear Crossmember Modification for Troy Ermish Camber - Toe Brackets and Whiteline Bushings
510 Pedal Box Clean-up
510 body dolly510 body dolly - solid wheels
Spal fan mount on CX Racing radiator
Bought some Snowflake wheels
Refinish of 81 280ZX Turbo Snowflake wheels
Rebuilding 280ZX front calipers for the 510
Adventures in power steering rack and pinion rebuild
Modern front seat belts in the 510
Modern rear seat belts in the 510
510 Door sill/threshold ''refinish"
Gas pedal modification and cable for SR20DE
Reseal and Rattle Can Rebuild of S15 SR20DE, The Start
Aftermarket center caps for Snowflake wheels
Speedhut and fan control sensors added to SR20DE
Oil Pressure Senders, Take Two
Byron can sleep soundly now, AKA: Oil Pressure Senders, Take Three
Reseal and Rattle Can Rebuild of S15 SR20DE, The Middle
Central Door Locks Solenoid Mount
Datsun 510 Door and Rear Deck Speakers Prep
Sealing/rust encapsulant on floor and roof
510 Remote Trunk Release
Rear Maxima Disk Brake Brackets for 510
S15 SR20DE engine wiring harness to JBC Can Am box in 510
Started rust repair on front fender
Converting RWD SR20DE clutch to SR20DET clutch and flywheel in Datsun 510
Wiper mechanism rebuild and Acura Integra wiper in Datsun 510
Park location correction for Acura Integra wiper in Datsun 510
Ford dash mounted variable intermittent wiper control in Datsun 510

Last edited by Stu on 27 Jan 2021 16:39, edited 3 times in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Pulling the old motor

Post by Stu »

The PO had just put in a rebuilt head on the L20B that was in the car and converted from automatic to a dogleg 5 speed. Because the wiring for the automatic has a bunch of start relay BS, he had not gotten around to getting the car started. Fine with me since I always planned on an EFI motor and I've never been a fan of dogleg transmissions...

So out with the old:

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The motor had good compression, a new clutch and headers. Sold the whole package to a guy with a 520.
Last edited by Stu on 13 Apr 2020 16:46, edited 2 times in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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"new" motor

Post by Stu »

Originally I was going to use a KA24DE from a 240SX, but after talking with several people in the know, I opted for a JDM SR20DE with a 5 speed. Most KA motors have tons of miles on them now and would need a rebuild anyway. I considered a turbo for a bit but they too are getting hard to find that are not thrashed. The additional cost of all the turbo manifolds and piping was just not in the budget.

Ended up buying a S15 SR20DE from a JDM importer complete with 5 speed and complete harness for $1700. It arrived on a pallet and was not 'too crusty'. I think the place I bought it from wanted it to look nice so they power washed the crap out of it, getting some water in the transmission through the shift area. I bitched up a storm and got them to refund me some money.

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I drained some oil out of the motor to check for water (none) and verified compression was good. I pulled the transmission apart to verify all was good and then put new front and rear seals in. Pretty easy to work on compared to 'top load' transmissions I have done in the past. All of the bearings were smooth and no chips or metal bits. I plan on pulling the motor down to a long block and clean everything anyway.

Since I won't have this thing running for a while, hope the decision to keep it does not bite me in the ass.
Last edited by Stu on 13 Apr 2020 16:24, edited 1 time in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Start of wiring clean-up

Post by Stu »

Since I am going EFI, internally regulated alternator, and aftermarket gauges, most of the wiring in the engine compartment could be removed and cleaned up. I used the color wiring diagram that has been floating around the internet for quite a while.

I plan on eliminating the stock fuse box and running lots of relays when I incorporate the EFI harness

Harness removed and starting to get stripped (and cleaned/sealed transmission):

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Some of what has been chopped out:

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I'll update sometime in the future when it gets put back in...
Last edited by Stu on 13 Apr 2020 16:27, edited 1 time in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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Posts: 234
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

510 Heater Rebuild

Post by Stu »

I know this seems way ahead of when needed, but I like to have things 'ready' to put back in when needed, and on the SR20 motor, both of the heater lines are on the right side of the car. I am planning on welding up all of the extra holes in the firewall so wanted to get the hose routing figured out sooner than later.

Heater did not appear to leak other than from the stock valve.

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sooooo full of debris

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I pressure tested the core with 15psi with no leaks so went about cleaning, painting, and resealing with all new foam.

I used:
  • gates 18850/dayco 86122
  • 2X gates 18801/dayco 87663
  • gates 18774/dayco 86121
  • Honda 79710-SDA-A01 (2003 to 2007 Honda Accord) valve
  • 5/8" to 5/8" heater hose splice (made the angles easier)
The Honda valve is a push to open (just like the Datsun). I bought genuine Honda because it came with a mount and cable retainer. The Gates 18801 hoses have a nice bend to get the inlet (on the valved side) and outlet at the same level and where they would match nicely with the hoses and flow direction from the SR20.

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bracket has to be cut and bent.

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The hose for "inside"

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'outside' hose:

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'to firewall' (I used two):

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Last edited by Stu on 13 Apr 2020 16:35, edited 2 times in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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Posts: 234
Joined: 02 Oct 2019 19:32
Location: Vancouver, WA USA

510 Heater Rebuild

Post by Stu »

Clean parts (painted satin black)

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new foam in the upper control box too

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all done

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The push/pull cable routes nicely but I may have to get a generic length to make it work best. How it sits in the car.

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I bought a 5/8 barb (inside) to -10 o-ring fittings for the firewall. The 90 deg bend will match nicely with the hoses on the SR20. I will have to upsize the engine side to 3/4 since that is what is on the SR20.
  • Billet Specialties BLK66825
  • Vintage Air 121018
Image
Last edited by Stu on 13 Apr 2020 16:42, edited 1 time in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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spriso
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Location: Oregon

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by spriso »

Stu-- none of your photos are showing up?! We would love to see your progress.

Image

Michael
Michael Spreadbury
Spriso Motorsports
www.spriso.com
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Stu
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Stu »

well crap. I tried to link to my Google photos... Will try again

I think I fixed them?
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
cwd240z
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by cwd240z »

I can see the pics. Looks like you've got a pretty good project on your hands, looking forward to seeing the work! I do like the idea of a naturally aspirated SR20, should be fun. How many miles are on the new motor?
Chris
'71 510 4-Door Sedan
'76 280z
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Stu
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Stu »

The motor is supposed to have 30-50k but can not be sure. Looking inside the valve cover it looks very clean and compression was above 185. I won’t really know until I pull more of it apart. Right now the motor is just sitting in the engine bay so I can get everything placed where I want it to go.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
Three B's Racing
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Three B's Racing »

I have a `96 S14 DE in my 510 14 years now and it easily has north of 100k miles on it I'm sure but!!! it runs like a bat out of hell and the only things I have done to the motor is Tomie Pon-Cams and 10lb Findanza aluminum flywheel and stock clutch for the turbo engines. The S14's clutch is 225mm and pressure plate is no where to be found in the States unless you want to purchase from Japan at a hugh price + shipping, the turbo clutch is 240mm. So that is why I got the turbo flywheel and stock clutch because their easy to obtain plus the 10lb flywheel made a hugh difference in response and it provided great compression braking. Your going to love the power of that S15.
"Lastnight the wife said oh boy when your dead you can't take nothing with you but your soul oh "Think"
- John Lennon
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Fred_L-P
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Location: Montreal, Can

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Fred_L-P »

100% onboard with your build. Exactly my style. Keep us updated! I like what you did with the heater. Thanks for the part numbers, I'll probably do the exact same thing.
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Stu
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Stu »

Three B's Racing wrote: 14 Apr 2020 06:01 I have a `96 S14 DE in my 510 14 years now and it easily has north of 100k miles on it I'm sure but!!! it runs like a bat out of hell and the only things I have done to the motor is Tomie Pon-Cams and 10lb Findanza aluminum flywheel and stock clutch for the turbo engines. The S14's clutch is 225mm and pressure plate is no where to be found in the States unless you want to purchase from Japan at a hugh price + shipping, the turbo clutch is 240mm. So that is why I got the turbo flywheel and stock clutch because their easy to obtain plus the 10lb flywheel made a hugh difference in response and it provided great compression braking. Your going to love the power of that S15.
I was going to go with the turbo clutch set-up and lighter flywheel when I get to that point. Thanks for the reminder. I’d love to do cam, but not sure if the budget will allow it and can be done ‘later’.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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Posts: 234
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

510 Radiator hoses with CX Racing SR20 radiator

Post by Stu »

I have temporarily mounted my motor and transmission so that I can get the engine bay laid out and all the components located.

The first thing is get a radiator figured out.

I decided to go with the CX Racing radiator and the 'straight out the side' water outlet:

CXRACING ALUMINUM RADIATOR FOR DATSUN 510 WITH SR20DET ENGINE SWAP WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION RAD-D5

- Overall Size: 28.75"x13.5"x1.5"
- Core Size: 25.5"x13"x1.5"
- 1.375" Inlet & Outlet

PIP-WATER-SR20

- 1.5" diameter

I know that this is sort of overkill for a NA motor, but it is nice and thin, the inlet/outlet are in the right places, it is pretty cheap (~$200), it has some mounting points, and it has been done before. The downside I see with this radiator is that since it is sooooooo wide, it needs a bigger opening and it hits things like the horns. Both of which I am willing to deal with.

I did not want to use the CX Racing blue silicone hoses, so went on the hunt for 'stock' Gates hoses that would work.

Normally I would just grab a coat hanger, bend it up, take it to O'Rielly's, and do a bit of digging in the back. But, with stay home orders, I went to the Gates pdf of all of their coolant hoses, and started looking at PNs that 'looked' correct. I wanted to stay in the 1.375" range since that is what is on the SR20 and the radiator. The standard L series are closer to 1.25" and that would be too tight on the water outlet.

All of the hoses from O'Rielly's:

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LOWER HOSE:

Two looked interesting for the lower:

Gates 22515 and Gates 23882. Both of these are considered 1-3/8" ID. I think either would work but I liked the way the 22515 was a bit closer and had a nice S-shape to give a bit more room to the radiator.

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Gates 22515 installed. I will need to add a sensor for controlling the fan, but I will just add a bung to the inlet right after the hose/before the thermostat.

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UPPER HOSE

When I measured the engine water outlet to radiator inlet, it looked like about a 2" vertical offset and about 14" center-line length. This one was more of a pain in the ass to find a hose that had the right shape. I ended up with two options that I could cut the center out of:

Gates 23372, 1.38" ID

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Gates 22681, 1.41" ID

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Once again, either of these would work, but I liked the bends in the 23372, it was tighter on the radiator, and not too tight on the 1.5" of the outlet.

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after cutting out the 'middle'

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Sorry for so long, but hope this helps others doing an SR20 swap into a 510 with the CX Racing radiator.
Last edited by Stu on 17 Apr 2020 13:16, edited 1 time in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
User avatar
Stu
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Posts: 234
Joined: 02 Oct 2019 19:32
Location: Vancouver, WA USA

CX Racing SR20 radiator mounting in 510

Post by Stu »

I probably should have put this ahead of the above post...

Since the CX Racing radiator is sooooo wide, it requires the core support to get opened up a bit. I did not want to chop on it too much so I am not taking full advantage of the width. I also mounted mine 'high' so that the lower mount bolt is not behind the lower valance panel. I did have to shorten the upper mount post because they are on the raised part that the headlights mount to.

I also used rubber grommets so the radiator does not get stressed when it expands and contracts. Hard mounted radiators are destined to fail.

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I wanted the opening to have some strength and look as factory as I could. So I made a little flange tool that I work around the edge to bend the metal a bit each pass, then finish it with a body hammer and dolly.

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Blended into the old lower opening:

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I am hoping to add some sort of duct/scoop under the radiator to direct cold air towards the air filter since the old "inlets" under the headlighs are now blocked off.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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