Stu's 1972 4 Door

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cwd240z
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by cwd240z »

Haha body work is definitely one of the less interesting parts, but great progress! It's looking good.
Chris
'71 510 4-Door Sedan
'76 280z
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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

More Bodywork

Post by Stu »

To get all of the paint off the roof and not spend a bunch of time sanding a giant metal drum (crazy how LOUD the roof is when you sand with a DA), I used paint stripper and covered it with plastic so it does not dry out and really gets time to work (30-60 min)

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I took the car to a local sand blast place and got the rain gutters, door jambs, and rocker panels blasted. So much faster than trying to sand all of the little nooks and crannies.

Previously lead filled areas near the front windshield, and where I welded the body seams on the rocker panels, were filled with high strength Duraglas then finished with regular body filler.

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My plan this weekend is to epoxy seal, seam seal, and prime the roof, cowel, door jambs, and rockers. It is going to be a long day but want to get all of this bare metal covered. I will probably need to recontour some of the areas I put high strength filler, but it is hard to see the shape when it is all different colors.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
Three B's Racing
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Three B's Racing »

It is hard to see the shape when with multiple colors. What I've done is, get a good wide beam light, turn off all the lights in the work area and cast a shadow down the worked areas. That shadow will follow any unwanted contour, revealing the need of more beer for more work.
"Lastnight the wife said oh boy when your dead you can't take nothing with you but your soul oh "Think"
- John Lennon
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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Stu »

Three B's Racing wrote: 27 Oct 2021 05:22 It is hard to see the shape when with multiple colors. What I've done is, get a good wide beam light, turn off all the lights in the work area and cast a shadow down the worked areas. That shadow will follow any unwanted contour, revealing the need of more beer for more work.
Great tip! I'll give it a try, both the beer and more work.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Removal and Replacement of Rear Sheetmetal

Post by Stu »

Bodywork is tedious and reading about it is even worse. Basically because of previous crappy bodywork from the late 70s, I need to replace:
  • both quarter panels
  • right side trunk drop
  • right side trunk gutter
  • tail light panel
  • lower valance
All of the panels are the Muscle GT parts that places like FutoFab and Z Car Depot sell, and they are 'meh' in terms of quality. In my opinion:

Quarters:
  • sonic lines are not correct and as sharp as stock
  • a bit 'short' from the door edge to the trunk lid rear face (door gap will be bigger and trunk overhangs the back)
  • lip on the wheel well edge is rolled in a 'finished' position which makes it near impossible to put it on and off the vehicle easily during fit up
  • sonic line to the wheel arch at the door gap is not 'tall' enough and makes aligning this line with the door and wheel well arch a total pain
  • shape of the outer lip of the wheel well is too sharp compared to stock
  • large radius between shoulder and sonich line is flat compared to door
  • radius at trunk upper corner is small and does not match trunk
Tail Light Panel:
  • bottom lip is bent poorly and makes it very hard to set up correctly 'up and down'
  • lower corner of the tail light recess is not formed correctly and does not line up well with quarter panels
  • mounting holes for tail lights are not correct
Lower Valance, trunk drop, and side gutter
  • not too bad and just need some small messing with to get to fit
Even with all of my bitching, the panels are way better looking than the garbage that the car came with. Since all of my panels needed to be removed, I did see any sense in replacing one panel at a time because all of them would need to be aligned as a unit.

rough cut

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cleaned up

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only touched hot sheetmetal a couple times (I smell like bacon)

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Here are the problem areas that all need adjustment:

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There was lots and lots of trimming, bending, staring, swearing, and taking the panels on and off 100 times. I might never get the smell of cutting wheels out of my skin. Welding clamps work great for temp holding and when I felt "close", self tapping sheet metal screws are great. I used the height of the trunk floor, trunk lid, and holes that mount the side of the bumper as the main guides. The door gaps and transitions at the C-pillar and around the tail lights can be massaged, welded and/or sculpted with high strength filler. The body line on the tail panel just above the bumper also was critical. The quarter panels come with material that would normally get sandwiched between all of the layers in the C-pillar, but I am just butt welding in this area to keep it simple. I have some serious gaps but needed them to be able to move the rest of the panel around as needed.

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Need to tweak the door alignment a bit more but

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Starting to really weld stuff together, no turning back now

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Last edited by Stu on 03 Apr 2022 08:44, edited 1 time in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
cwd240z
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by cwd240z »

Wow, that's definitely enough work to keep you busy for a while. I've read about some of those issues with those panels, but not all of them. Looks like you're doing a great job.
Chris
'71 510 4-Door Sedan
'76 280z
slowerthantime
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by slowerthantime »

Seeing all of this triggered my PTSD from doing my car. Much better to be watching and not doing. As you mentioned, for all of the PITA fitment issues, the result is still better than trying to work with rotten original stuff. Nice work.
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Stu
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Stu »

slowerthantime wrote: 01 Feb 2022 08:54 Seeing all of this triggered my PTSD from doing my car. Much better to be watching and not doing. As you mentioned, for all of the PITA fitment issues, the result is still better than trying to work with rotten original stuff. Nice work.
You had way, way, way more repair than I have to do, but I'm sure I'll have a few flashbacks when I'm done :D

I might use your porta power trick to get my rear corners to line up with the trunk more. I ended up gapping more at the door to bias the quarters back as much as I can since filling the door gap is much more straightforward than recontouring the tail shape.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

trying to fix all of the mismatch on new panels

Post by Stu »

Because the reproduction panels are 'close' but not as good as stock, I needed to fix some areas that are very obvious when not matching, like the upper corners of the trunk lid and the rear face of the trunk. The rear door gaps and wheel well arch areas were filled/contoured with high strength filler. The holes for the tail lights are also not in the correct location and needed to be filled and redrilled. I also flattened the 'bumps' that can be seen from behind the US spec license plate. The area around the outer corners of the tail lights also got recontoured to better match the light housings.

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a little slice in the corner allows you tap the radius out a bit to match the trunk corner

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I also added some high strength filler to get the rear of the quarter and the trunk to match better

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The shoulder area behind each door also needs to have a skim of filler to match the door

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in primer with a guide coat

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Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
cwd240z
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Location: Texas

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by cwd240z »

Looks like you're making awesome progress on the bodywork. You may have already said, but what color are you planning to paint it?
Chris
'71 510 4-Door Sedan
'76 280z
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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Stu »

cwd240z wrote: 06 Apr 2022 12:40 Looks like you're making awesome progress on the bodywork. You may have already said, but what color are you planning to paint it?
I'm going with a 904 white. I really like the 018 white but my wife thinks it looks like a stormtrooper. 904 has just a bit more creaminess to it without being as yellow as something like Wimbledon White.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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Stu
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Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Door latch re-rubber

Post by Stu »

When I was trying to get my doors to latch properly so I could check all the gaps, I realized that the little rubber 'cap' that is on the door side latch mechanism was all worn out and making the latch not properly rotate into the final lock position. When the thickness of the rubber is missing, the cam is actuated 'late' and the second position does not mesh with the body side catch. Most people just start slamming the doors, but could not do all this work then still have to slam the door. The body side latches were also starting to get worn.

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/ makes Z-car specific parts, but their "240z Lock Mechanism Set" has many of the same rubber parts as the 510, so I grabbed a kit for each door.

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I replaced the part that goes over the cam, the half circle, and the part on the rotating lock part. Rubbing alcohol and an old dental tool helped get the parts off and back on.

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On the body side, I bought new catches and transferred the rubber anti-rattle parts from the old catches

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Getting everything all soaked in rubbing alcohol makes removal and re-insertion pretty straight forward

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Some new screws for the body side latches

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well, back to sanding
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
72ultraorange
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by 72ultraorange »

Stu wrote: 21 Apr 2020 12:39
cwd240z wrote: 21 Apr 2020 12:06 I've been wanting to install hood struts as well. I haven't gotten around to order the struts listed in that DQ issue yet, but now I'm glad that I didn't. Thanks for posting that info!
Not sure if they did not work because I got the stainless steel sockets (just a bit longer), but they still have a very short stroke and mount on the weak point of the body. Hope yours work well
Stu, THANKS for this post on the hood struts! The issue I had was with the ball ends impacting the hinge mounting bolts. I finished this update recently and the longer struts work well. Remarkable work on your car! AND thank you for these terrific posts!👍
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icehouse
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Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by icehouse »

Hold the phone!!! I've always saved the 68 door latches because they don't have the rubber and still shut perfect after all these years. I wonder how that kit will hold up. I want to try it!
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
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Stu
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Magnetic fuel door catch

Post by Stu »

I hate locking fuel doors because I always forget to grab the key and if someone wants to steal my gas, I don't want then bending the tinfoil that this car is made of to get the door open. I modified the fuel door and pocket to use a push-push mechanism to hold the fuel door closed.

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Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab
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