L Series Engine Parts available today - Rockers, Pistons and more...

[MikeY]

It was nice to chat with you Byron. I did order 2 AIRTEX AW9009 water pumps. So I will let the group know if it comes with a cast impeller.
Out of fear of cam/ rocker destruction and what seems an unnecessary expense I will try to source stock nos l20b valve springs or just test and find a matched set of used. I've never had a .180 pad fall out and the AUS pads have the dimple that should help the pad sit deeper, so the thicker retainers don't seem needed. I have a few coffee cans of rockers and springs. I'm building drivers not race engines. Just a cam for the lump at a red ight.
What are the thoughts on reusing head bolts. I have plenty of the upgraded stock ones. With the circle on the heads around the Allen key. Cleaned up they always worked in the past. I did snap one off removing the last head. I hope there is enough exposed to help with removal.

[bertvorgon]

Not sure if it is worth mentioning, or most may know, you can shim the pump pressure up.

I have the higher volume oil pump of course and as my engine set-up basically has a major "leak, what with turbo and spray bar, as the pump came, it could not produce the pressure reguired.

So, we just snuck up with shims behind the blow-off spring, up to the good pressure needed for me. Never touched it since.

[Byron510]

Mike,
Regarding head bolts - to me they are all getting old - think that every time the motor heats up, that bolt is cycled one more stretch...
I’ve been using the ARP head bolts (and rod bolts) for years now on my builds.
To be honest - I like the studs & nuts much better from a technical point of view - in regards to torquing.
To me it also seams easier on the block as well. Our old blocks are starting to crack into the water jackets from the head bolt holes as the blocks age - again thermal cycling taking effect. So taking that twisting motion out of the torquing of the bolt...it goes over better for me.

Byron.

[MikeY]

Just wanted to update on a few parts I've ordered and received from rockauto.
The Hitachi oil pump for a 1983 Turbo automatic 280zx is correct. An aluminum body and from Japan. Measured the rotor and it's 40mm , so a high volume. The Melling 111 is cast steel bodied, but also high volume.
And the cloyes timing chain kit is now made in China. Don't know how this effects quality. The chain dowels are solid not hollow like some cheaper chains ive seen.
I don't know where to source a made in Japan chain. My machine shop sourced 2 made in Taiwan chain kits. Double the cost. Hard to judge if it's worth the extra.
Felpro gaskets are all made in USA. They are pretty inexpensive so I worry about quality a bit. But the next 2 , 2.3lz builds are getting $20 head gaskets.

[Chickenman]

Matt Armstrong in Mission is building a fixture on his restored Valve Grinding machine to regrind Nissan Rocker Arms. Then we can get them done locally.

[Byron510]

Well, I finally got into it - pulled the motor from the Bronze to take a look.
I hope to participate in Driver Training in mid-August at Mission, and I just wasn’t going to go on track with the blue cloud following the car in deceleration
So, I had two options going into this. I have an already rebuilt L20B that's been sitting on an engine stand for 4 years that was supposed to go into my brothers 4dr. Turned out last summer he needed to put the car in service really fast. I had a complete L18 and replaced his L16 oil burner in a day. He's perfectly happy with it and no longer desires the L20B... so it there and available. +.20", ARP rod bolts, Hastings rings. It's work just fine.
The other option was to re-ring the LZ22 block that is in the car - if it was worthwhile.
In either case, the U67 head was refreshed 2 years ago, it'd be utilized in any case. There were my options, off I went.
The motor came out with no dramas. The hood hasn’t been off the Bronze since it was assembled in 2003. So it got alignment holes in the hinges for the first time.
With the head off, there was more oil build up on the tops on #2 and 3, but nothing excessive. Zero ridge to speak of on any cylinder, no marks in the bores, cross hatch is still clearly visible - so I pulled the pistons.
Upon taking out #2, I found the problem.... broken ring lands between #1 & #2 ring and #2 ring and the oil control ring land. I can’t pinpoint the exact reason for the failure. I closely checked all other pistons for any ring land issues. Nothing found.

Broken Piston #2.jpg (79.31 KiB) Viewed 1650 times

I checked the bores and found the wear to be nearly minimal. The worst-case wear was .0015" ovality and taper combined. Given what I have put this previously unopened, factory bottom end through in the last 20 years - that's bloody amazing! And it cam out of a cab/chassis motorhome that already had 100K on it!
So tonight, I am looking at my options. I have only 6 weeks and want to spend some time on the chassis as well. The easy way forward is installing the L20B. But if I can locate a set of standard pistons, I'll clean and hone the block, and install them.
We'll see where it goes, I'll keep you posted.

Byron

[datzenmike]

Bad ring end gap? Overheated?

You need stock Z22 pistons? I might have some and from a Z22 720.

[bertvorgon]

That is detonation, likely light over time so you did not hear nor feel.

here is a piston from my GTS Toyota back in the day.

Piston top was fine, started burning oil like yours was smoking......

That's my thought.

[Byron510]

I wondered about detonation, and it’s certainly a possibility. But I have had the EFI on it since 2006, and an ever watchful knock sensor in place that whole time. Ever for the 2 year stint where I had side draft carbs in place, the EFI crank fire ignition and knock sensor were still doing their work. But like you said, Kieth, it could have been light and not even audible.
This was #2, no other damage is evident on this or any other piston. The piston crown is un-damaged. There is certainly more scuffing on the skirt thank your Toyota piston. The scuffing was common across all the pistons, likely a result of mileage. I admit I have always drove this car pretty hard. So no complaints from my side.
The decision was made last night to instal the rebuilt L20B bottom end I already have. It’s got a +0.50mm overbore, Hastings rings, new bearings and ARP rod bolts. Also all new Cloyes timing gear. Because it was built for light duty, balancing was not performed, so I’ll have to take it easy. I’ll reinstall my 16 lb flywheel. The roadster clutch seems to be in good shape, thankfully. I don’t think I have a spare.
I’ll rebuild the motor removed, but I won’t kid myself. A good machinist has a 6 month minimum waiting period for the boring work these days. I’ll enlarge the oil feeds on the mains and perform a few other longevity tricks when I build it. It’s been a while since I’ve fully balanced a good bottom end. We’ll see where it goes. That hairdryer I bought all those years ago is still under the bench…

Byron

[510rob]

I admit I have always drove this car pretty hard. So no complaints from my side.

check!

The decision was made last night to install the rebuilt L20B bottom end I already have.

check!

That hairdryer I bought all those years ago is still under the bench…

check!

[funwithmonkeys]

Time for some Choo Choo noises.

[Byron510]

Time for some Choo Choo noises.

Nice try guys. The turbo install is not happening this summer - and unlikely over the winter!
I did pull the trigger on all the parts to rebuild the bottom end. As the block wear is so low, I’m going to take the chance that the bore will still be in tolerance and ordered a standard set of ITM pistons. Once I have the new pistons, I can co firm. At $34 a piece with rings, it’s not much of a gamble. The Clevite bearings are still available. But only the aluminum backed ones for the rods. A couple ZX T auto oil pumps, and a water pump to put on the shelf as I found one with a cast impeller. The stand by FelPro lower end conversion sets are no longer available, so I got the front cover set, and oil pan gasket. I like them because they are cork, and I seem to have the least issues with leakage. The seals added just about made a conversion set, I think I’m only missing the oil pick up gasket which is easily made. Turns out brake rotors are better sourced locally. $35 each at Lordco for the 280ZX units. I’ll have to hunt down some new polymatrix pads and a seal set for my willwood callipers up front. Then the car should be track ready
Motor assembly got a little further. Glens been by to keep me company the last few days. Yesterday was cleaning day for the most part. We did install the timing chain, front cover an oil pan at the end of it all. Tonight was engine bay wash down, but did get the head on and a better fabricated, cleaner looking block breather to the PCV figure out along with a few brackets. But everything important is now torqued down, a good place to stop for the night. Long block complete with flywheel and front pulley on.

Byron

[Byron510]

I just finished an LZ2.2 , I used a COMP cam witch was the CWC casting , ITM rockers and ISKY springs(street version) I used Brad Penn 30wt break-in oil left out the inner springs for run in and followed all the normal break in procedures. The cam and rockers failed at about the 60 mile mark and lots of tuning in the garage I can't really say whom is to blame as all the rockers and all the lobes are damaged. oil pressure was/is great, plenty of flow out of all the cam lobes and the rocker geometry was centered. I'm now running an old used L20 cam and rockers with no troubles, I'm having an original cam reground to spec as well as a set of original rockers, We'll see what happens. As for ITM pistons i've installed a bunch of them in various European engines with Zero failures and would have used them if mine had needed to be replaced.

How did you ever make out with this motor after the cam was reground and new rockers put it?

I just bought a set if ITM pistons for the Z22 that I pulled out 2 weeks ago. The new ITM pistons arrived last weekend, along with a new turbo oil pump, water pump and a bunch of gaskets. Your right, the pistons do seem like good quality. I have yet to mic them up, that will come soon.

I'm still on the fence regarding oil to use. It's the break-in stage that concerns me, especially on the cam. Even the higher ZDDP diesel oils (1200 PPM) that were around two years ago when I started this thread are now hard to find locally. I guess I resort to buying online.

I just put in my car a stock but fresh L20B bottom end (new pistons, rings, bearings, ARP rod bolts and a Cloyes timing chain set), and used the head I had on the LZ22 (445 cam, 44mm 280Z intake valves and some port work to match my EFI manifold - nothing serious). I am missing those 2 points of compression right now, back to a stock 8.5:1. After 5500, the motor falls on it's face - seems to just make noise and no more power. Fun factor drops, but I guess I can use shit fuel now without much of a penalty! I likely won't, but I'm just saying. I am looking forward to installing the Z22S bottom end back in the near future.

If anyone has some thoughts on oil - recent thoughts - I'd love to hear 'em.

Byron

[datzenmike]

Shell Rotella T4 in 10w30 or 15w40 is what I use for the higher ZDDP levels. It's a diesel oil that still retains the high ZDDP levels for the 'flat tappet' valve train on all diesels. Chevron Delo 400 is similar and Esso has one also. It's just a matter of going farther down the shelf at Can Tire and selecting it. It's more detergent so the first few oil changes, the oil darkened quickly as it cleaned the block and head.

[Hoppenj]

it came out great no further issues, I'm running Valvoline VR1 20/50