Well i finally decided to fill my engine up with oil today.
Engine is still up on the engine stand,
Engine is a L14 has a brand new L28ET oil pump on it,
So i primed the oil pump and bolted it in place checking dizzy drive position,
I have turned the engine over many many times by hand with a socket on the front pulley, I am looking for oil to flow through the cam shaft but it never came though, So i unscrewed the oil pressure sender fitting to see if oil would flow from the block.
Nothing would come out of that port,
So next i pulled pump and it was still fill to the brim with oil. So i put it back on.
I then unscrewed the oil filter and oil went everywhere all over my floor. So i know at least that the pump has picked up oil and started to move it round,
Am i just turning the engine over to slowly with a socket and a ratchet???
I would love to be able to prove that i have oil flowing fully round my engine before i put it in the car,
I do have the option of dropping the engine off the stand and bolting a bell housing to it, The i can fit up the starter motor and turn it over with that.
Does anyone think that this is what i will have to do to get engine spinning quick enough to move the oil round?
Any ideas or advice will be much appreciated,
Thanks
Brett
Oil pressure after rebuild
Re: Oil pressure after rebuild
L!4 - where are you located? You can remove the distributor drive spindle and connect a modified rod to a drill to prime the pump at a much faster speed - will probably work much better.
Finished is better than perfect......
- bertvorgon
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Re: Oil pressure after rebuild
As James said that is the best way to prime a motor.
There is no way by hand cranking you will get flow, specially up to the camshaft.
Just as an FYI, after my L series sits for over a month, and I go to start it, it takes quite a few seconds even at a good cranking speed for oil pressure to register on my gauge.
There is no way by hand cranking you will get flow, specially up to the camshaft.
Just as an FYI, after my L series sits for over a month, and I go to start it, it takes quite a few seconds even at a good cranking speed for oil pressure to register on my gauge.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Re: Oil pressure after rebuild
James' method is the way to go, but remember to spin your drill counterclockwise to generate oil pressure. You basically need a very long, flat-head screwdriver blade. Blade end into the oil pump through the timing cover. Bit messy, but a piece of cake.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Re: Oil pressure after rebuild
Oil pump primed and installed along with the distributor. Take the spark plugs out, remove the valve cover, using a remote stater switch, let the starter spin the motor until it squirts oil out of the cam or spray bar. If you have a mechanical fuel pump, the carb will get filled up so it will start right away if everything else is OK. I've been doing this for 40 years and never made a mess, AND it impresses the crap out your customers.