Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
-
RONSLYCHUK
- Supporter
- Posts: 780
- Joined: 12 Sep 2004 19:42
- Location: Abbotsford B.C.
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
I think that you have reached all of your objectives- —-very nice work!
635's VQ35DE fires up for the first time.
I'm starting to get excited. The end of this project is looking more and more certain now - mid September she'll have her first test drive? I'm almost convinced that I'll have this running before the PITA KA24e within my 510 - wouldn't that be ironic!
Since the last update I've slowly but steadily threw some hours into the project whenever I had a bit of time. Progress has been demonstrated with a shorter and shorter To-Do list, and more and more time needed to consider new items before each 'phase' is completed (ie: motor mounted for the final time).
Here's a rough summary of the workflow:
New ARP exhaust manifold bolts arrived. ARP (673-1002) is the part number. These are a nice 1 piece bolt rather than a threaded stud and nut. Naturally, new gaskets were used. Stock heat shields were remounted.
I double checked all vacuum and coolant lines on the VQ. Clamped down as required.
Double checked the wiring harness. Ensured everything was properly clipped in and fastened.
Motor was mounted into the frame, slotted into the engine mounts perfectly, again. I really nailed that part of the build.
I focused on testing as much as I could with the body off. Fuel lines were purged with air (to clear and debris) then tightened. In doing so my first surprise was to see the return line fitting had snapped off and Tanks Inc will be out of stock until late July. I managed to find a temporary replacement, but re-doing 'done stuff' really sucks.
Fuel was added to the tank and the pump fired up.
No leaks except for the O ring on the rear passenger side.
That was a PITA to remove the upper manifold but in the end the source of the leak was quite obvious. A quick swap with a spare part and she was leak-free.
Next I pressurized the front & rear brake lines. I leveraged an S30 Master Brake Cylinder to pressurize. After a few nuts were tightened the system stayed leak-free and was bled. All the fluid will be purged again once the cab is mounted and the proper master cylinders are fastened.
Next I focused on the heater lines. The electronic valve had to be positioned within the engine bay as there was no room on the inner firewall.
Here's a pic of the lines poking out. I'm a little nervous they poke out too far but we'll see and modify as required once the cab is lowered.
Here's a pic of the heater mounted on the inner firewall.
After that it was simply a matter of testing the starter and then the ECU. After some clarification on mis-labeled wire from Z Fever, my VQ35DE fired right up!!! Honestly, the thing sounded so civil, like it was running just yesterday.
https://youtu.be/JEu58_QDLgA
Even more pleasing was that the custom exhaust I built had a pretty decent tone.
https://youtube.com/shorts/IZmnfFJ91YY?feature=share
So with this done, I'll clean up the wiring and make sure everything's fastened and away from the exhaust. Next I'll be added some aluminum heat shielding between the exhaust and cab floor. Once complete, I'll be ready to lower the cab for the final time. This will take some effort to make sure the steering connect properly and heater lines work well. After that I'll connect the brake lines and then start on the elctrical.
Since the last update I've slowly but steadily threw some hours into the project whenever I had a bit of time. Progress has been demonstrated with a shorter and shorter To-Do list, and more and more time needed to consider new items before each 'phase' is completed (ie: motor mounted for the final time).
Here's a rough summary of the workflow:
New ARP exhaust manifold bolts arrived. ARP (673-1002) is the part number. These are a nice 1 piece bolt rather than a threaded stud and nut. Naturally, new gaskets were used. Stock heat shields were remounted.
- ARP6731002.jpg (60.56 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
I double checked all vacuum and coolant lines on the VQ. Clamped down as required.
Double checked the wiring harness. Ensured everything was properly clipped in and fastened.
Motor was mounted into the frame, slotted into the engine mounts perfectly, again. I really nailed that part of the build.
I focused on testing as much as I could with the body off. Fuel lines were purged with air (to clear and debris) then tightened. In doing so my first surprise was to see the return line fitting had snapped off and Tanks Inc will be out of stock until late July. I managed to find a temporary replacement, but re-doing 'done stuff' really sucks.
- BustedReturnFitting.jpg (153.58 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
Fuel was added to the tank and the pump fired up.
- TestingFuelLines.jpg (168.55 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
No leaks except for the O ring on the rear passenger side.
- ReturnFuelLines.jpg (189.88 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
That was a PITA to remove the upper manifold but in the end the source of the leak was quite obvious. A quick swap with a spare part and she was leak-free.
- Torn_O_Ring.jpg (51.4 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
Next I pressurized the front & rear brake lines. I leveraged an S30 Master Brake Cylinder to pressurize. After a few nuts were tightened the system stayed leak-free and was bled. All the fluid will be purged again once the cab is mounted and the proper master cylinders are fastened.
- TestingBrakeLines.jpg (148.91 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
Next I focused on the heater lines. The electronic valve had to be positioned within the engine bay as there was no room on the inner firewall.
- HeaterValve.jpg (148.92 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
Here's a pic of the lines poking out. I'm a little nervous they poke out too far but we'll see and modify as required once the cab is lowered.
- HeaterPlumbing.jpg (154.81 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
Here's a pic of the heater mounted on the inner firewall.
- HeaterMounted.jpg (129.5 KiB) Viewed 2881 times
After that it was simply a matter of testing the starter and then the ECU. After some clarification on mis-labeled wire from Z Fever, my VQ35DE fired right up!!! Honestly, the thing sounded so civil, like it was running just yesterday.
https://youtu.be/JEu58_QDLgA
Even more pleasing was that the custom exhaust I built had a pretty decent tone.
https://youtube.com/shorts/IZmnfFJ91YY?feature=share
So with this done, I'll clean up the wiring and make sure everything's fastened and away from the exhaust. Next I'll be added some aluminum heat shielding between the exhaust and cab floor. Once complete, I'll be ready to lower the cab for the final time. This will take some effort to make sure the steering connect properly and heater lines work well. After that I'll connect the brake lines and then start on the elctrical.
'72 Datsun 510 - MS KA24e, Watanabe, STI R180 & CV axles, R&P assisted steering
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
Good to see your progress!
"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there"
Ugandan Proverb
76 620 Full custom/resto-mod
Ugandan Proverb
76 620 Full custom/resto-mod
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
I am not sure how I missed this super awesome build, looks amazing man!!! Looking forward to more progress!
Project 635 - cab mounting
I mounted 635's cab for hopefully the last time this weekend. It took a bit of persuasion (I did it on my own) but I managed to get all 8 bolts to line up. For those wondering where I placed them there are 4 in the cab, 2 by the front rad support, 2 on the firewall reaching the Infiniti G35 towers.
These pics give bit more clarity as to how the Infiniti G35 'floating' towers are designed to clear the cab's inner arch.
With the VQ mounted, I finally got a good idea on the ride height. Spring rate seems like a decent first-guess, camber looks good too (OEM upper A-arms still, no adjustment)
Finally a pic with my 510 (which has received a TON of attention lately too).
I'll install & bleed the clutch this week, finish the heater coolant plumbing, finalize the steering column connections, and finish the cab brakes (including the handbrake). I'm thinking I'll be able to do an initial test drive by August.
- 20220715_085034.jpg (152.47 KiB) Viewed 2782 times
- 20220715_085052.jpg (131.66 KiB) Viewed 2782 times
These pics give bit more clarity as to how the Infiniti G35 'floating' towers are designed to clear the cab's inner arch.
- 20220715_115728.jpg (134.73 KiB) Viewed 2782 times
With the VQ mounted, I finally got a good idea on the ride height. Spring rate seems like a decent first-guess, camber looks good too (OEM upper A-arms still, no adjustment)
- 20220715_141809.jpg (195.52 KiB) Viewed 2782 times
- 20220715_141820.jpg (195.12 KiB) Viewed 2782 times
- 20220715_141829.jpg (183.8 KiB) Viewed 2782 times
Finally a pic with my 510 (which has received a TON of attention lately too).
- 20220715_132528.jpg (281.83 KiB) Viewed 2782 times
I'll install & bleed the clutch this week, finish the heater coolant plumbing, finalize the steering column connections, and finish the cab brakes (including the handbrake). I'm thinking I'll be able to do an initial test drive by August.
'72 Datsun 510 - MS KA24e, Watanabe, STI R180 & CV axles, R&P assisted steering
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
Looks great! That truck should be a monster of fun
"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there"
Ugandan Proverb
76 620 Full custom/resto-mod
Ugandan Proverb
76 620 Full custom/resto-mod
Late August update
It's been a month since the last update but 635 has received a steady amount of attention.
The truck fires up easy and has a hell of a bark when I hit the loud pedal - I don't think those 225 Michelin AS4 have a chance, but I do have a neat traction control solution planned which I'll work on over the winter.
First I'll start with what's done.
Koyo G35 rad is installed and after screwing around with a cut throttle body coolant nipple (source of a coolant leak), the system now holds coolant.
Awhile ago I posted my rear suspension bump stop solution.
Since then I realised I could leverage some older BC Racing rear dampers to increase compression. This extra travel meant the bump stop boss had to be shortened. I now have 8cm of compression and 7cm of droop in the rear - not bad!
The major delay in getting to drive the truck is twofold:
1) Autosports Engineering top-mount CD009 shifter won't let me select the left or right gates (1, 2, 5, 6, rev). I've reached out to the owner and he's been very helpful in solving this known issue (see vids in the attached: https://autosportsengineering.com/produ ... ont-mount/).
Essentially the detents (circle below) on the CD009 have to be pulled out and the rods shortened 1/8-3/16" to allow enough side-to-side travel. Unfortunately, access to the detents is only available with the cab removed... No worries as there's a bunch of things I've discovered that need to be done once its off ... :-/
2) Second issue is the sizing of the clutch master cylinder. I'm just not getting enough travel.
The original 5/8" Master Cylinder (MC) might be a touch too small for the 3/4" bore slave cylinder. I went two sizes up to 13/16" and it was ridiculously hard to press.
Typically, the MC and slave are the same (pedal ratio/leverage can have a large influence) so maybe I should have tired the Tilton 6/8". However, I also suspect my bleeding is an issue as there's lots of useless play in the initial pedal stroke.
My next step will be to work on the ECU mounting location (front of tranny tunnel) and the fuse box/wiring. I'll then remove the cab to perform the necessary changes (and repair that HUGE hole in the driver side tunnel - excessive tranny contact so it had to be redone). So, I won't hit my August 'driving' goal, but I am taking 3 weeks off this September and expect major progress.
This truck will be driving before Christmas!
The truck fires up easy and has a hell of a bark when I hit the loud pedal - I don't think those 225 Michelin AS4 have a chance, but I do have a neat traction control solution planned which I'll work on over the winter.
First I'll start with what's done.
Koyo G35 rad is installed and after screwing around with a cut throttle body coolant nipple (source of a coolant leak), the system now holds coolant.
- Koyo_1.jpg (126.77 KiB) Viewed 912 times
- Koyo_2.jpg (116.14 KiB) Viewed 912 times
Awhile ago I posted my rear suspension bump stop solution.
- ReworkedTowersBumpstop.jpg (108.84 KiB) Viewed 912 times
Since then I realised I could leverage some older BC Racing rear dampers to increase compression. This extra travel meant the bump stop boss had to be shortened. I now have 8cm of compression and 7cm of droop in the rear - not bad!
- Shortened Bumpstops.jpg (140.95 KiB) Viewed 912 times
The major delay in getting to drive the truck is twofold:
1) Autosports Engineering top-mount CD009 shifter won't let me select the left or right gates (1, 2, 5, 6, rev). I've reached out to the owner and he's been very helpful in solving this known issue (see vids in the attached: https://autosportsengineering.com/produ ... ont-mount/).
- AutosportsEngTopMount.jpg (172.26 KiB) Viewed 912 times
Essentially the detents (circle below) on the CD009 have to be pulled out and the rods shortened 1/8-3/16" to allow enough side-to-side travel. Unfortunately, access to the detents is only available with the cab removed... No worries as there's a bunch of things I've discovered that need to be done once its off ... :-/
- DententLimiters.jpg (137.29 KiB) Viewed 912 times
2) Second issue is the sizing of the clutch master cylinder. I'm just not getting enough travel.
- ClutchMaster.jpg (139.56 KiB) Viewed 912 times
The original 5/8" Master Cylinder (MC) might be a touch too small for the 3/4" bore slave cylinder. I went two sizes up to 13/16" and it was ridiculously hard to press.
- OverlyAmbitiousUp-sizing.jpg (130.56 KiB) Viewed 912 times
Typically, the MC and slave are the same (pedal ratio/leverage can have a large influence) so maybe I should have tired the Tilton 6/8". However, I also suspect my bleeding is an issue as there's lots of useless play in the initial pedal stroke.
My next step will be to work on the ECU mounting location (front of tranny tunnel) and the fuse box/wiring. I'll then remove the cab to perform the necessary changes (and repair that HUGE hole in the driver side tunnel - excessive tranny contact so it had to be redone). So, I won't hit my August 'driving' goal, but I am taking 3 weeks off this September and expect major progress.
This truck will be driving before Christmas!
'72 Datsun 510 - MS KA24e, Watanabe, STI R180 & CV axles, R&P assisted steering
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
This is awesomeness, keep up the great work. Looking forward to the next update.
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
Thanks! You won't have to wait long for an update.
'72 Datsun 510 - MS KA24e, Watanabe, STI R180 & CV axles, R&P assisted steering
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
Project 635 - FIRST DRIVE!!!
So after Friday's update I figured out a way to 'hack' the shifter issue to hopefully sneak in a quick test drive.
On Saturday my son and I worked the clutch line to get a better bleed. With the truck running and the rear wheels in the air, I was able to confirm the clutch was working in 3rd gear. That was issue #1 resolved.
For #2, I had to somehow make the shifter work. First I dropped the tranny a bit to get better access to the detent mechanism. For those who don't know, the detent mechanism provides that spring pressure for the shifter to return to neutral.
Removal wasn't too hard and I proceeded with shortening the driver's side rode approx 3.5mm. The problem was getting the rod to slide back in fully.
I decided to abort reinstallation and simply put the bolt caps back on. This gave me all the gears, albeit with quite a bit of flop and difficulty knowing the exact gate I was in.
I'll reinstall these once the cab is off the frame and the tranny is fully exposed. Interestingly, the passenger rod/spring is significantly longer than the driver's side.
With the clutch working and 1st gear access now in place, this happened.
The truck drove surprisingly well on my short 2km out & back. Besides the doors flapping around (duct tape is NOT a good temporary replacement to proper latches), traction was quite good, steering behaved normally, and throttle modulation was perfect.
https://youtu.be/Pu3lfjvCkRA
So now I'll take a few steps back on the build and remove the cab to address a list of small modification/fixes. As before, I'm confident she'll be back on the road for late fall.
On Saturday my son and I worked the clutch line to get a better bleed. With the truck running and the rear wheels in the air, I was able to confirm the clutch was working in 3rd gear. That was issue #1 resolved.
For #2, I had to somehow make the shifter work. First I dropped the tranny a bit to get better access to the detent mechanism. For those who don't know, the detent mechanism provides that spring pressure for the shifter to return to neutral.
- PassengerDetentRodAccess.jpg (151.31 KiB) Viewed 863 times
Removal wasn't too hard and I proceeded with shortening the driver's side rode approx 3.5mm. The problem was getting the rod to slide back in fully.
- DriverDetentRodShortening.jpg (104.22 KiB) Viewed 863 times
- DriverDetentRodSpringBolt.jpg (132.44 KiB) Viewed 863 times
- DriverDetentRodInCD009.jpg (140.1 KiB) Viewed 863 times
I decided to abort reinstallation and simply put the bolt caps back on. This gave me all the gears, albeit with quite a bit of flop and difficulty knowing the exact gate I was in.
- DriverPassengerDetentRodSpring.jpg (134.91 KiB) Viewed 863 times
I'll reinstall these once the cab is off the frame and the tranny is fully exposed. Interestingly, the passenger rod/spring is significantly longer than the driver's side.
- OnTheRoad.jpg (144.7 KiB) Viewed 863 times
With the clutch working and 1st gear access now in place, this happened.
The truck drove surprisingly well on my short 2km out & back. Besides the doors flapping around (duct tape is NOT a good temporary replacement to proper latches), traction was quite good, steering behaved normally, and throttle modulation was perfect.https://youtu.be/Pu3lfjvCkRA
So now I'll take a few steps back on the build and remove the cab to address a list of small modification/fixes. As before, I'm confident she'll be back on the road for late fall.
'72 Datsun 510 - MS KA24e, Watanabe, STI R180 & CV axles, R&P assisted steering
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
Great to see it mobie under it's own power, helps get the jiuces flowing!
"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there"
Ugandan Proverb
76 620 Full custom/resto-mod
Ugandan Proverb
76 620 Full custom/resto-mod
-
greenthumb
- Posts: 261
- Joined: 19 May 2013 20:57
- Location: Langley, BC
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
That’s awesome to have it mobile at last. Your pulse must have been racing!
October update - slashing some unsprung weight
Despite the lack of updates, progress on 635 has been steady over the last couple of months. For the first time in over two years, I'm free of any other Datsun commitments for the next few months. The plan is to get this build wrapped up and registered, likely by end of year. I even plan to sneak it out occasionally this winter for shake-down runs on my local gravel road. When spring comes I want this truck ready for DD duties.
I haven't bothered posting pics of the many mundane pieces that are being re-installed (door handles/locks, wiper assembly, headlights/grill). I'm getting to the point of focusing on electrical which for me is the home stretch. I still have to remove the cab one final time which is a drag, so I'm trying to get as much possible done inside the cab so there's no last-minute surprises once the cab is back on.
While the re-assembly continues, I have been focusing on upgrades. Namely in the area of front unsprung weight and some new wheels. The wheels will have to wait until the grand reveal, but let's just say they take this build to a new level - worthy of the effort and potential this truck.
In other areas I've decided to address what was a VERY porty front end. Anytime I removed the front suspension/brake assembly as a single unit off the frame, I was shocked at the weight.
First up are the front hubs. The AWD hubs use a typical ball/grease setup along with an axle spline & nut to hold it together. Due to the age and crustiness, I decided to replace and upgrade to RWD units. Thankfully the AWD uprights accepted the RWD hubs.
These uprights received attention in the past, per the chisel hack marks trying to get the hub/bearing out.
Weight saved with the hub swap is 2.46 lbs per wheel.
Next, I scored a set of new replacement lower TC arms ($100 CAD for the set LOL). Thankfully they too fit, after some shaving of the front hub bolt...
The difference between the cast iron vs aluminum was quite noticeable, 5.08 lbs/per wheel. AWD TC arms used cast iron for occasional front axle/propulsion duties which are N/A for me at this point.
Next up, I snagged these R33 aluminum calipers, more details will be in the next post but they managed to shave 7lbs/wheel vs the 2005 G35/350z dual piston calipers. Accompanying these calipers will be will be some 2-piece rotors. These are slightly smaller at 11.75" but if it's enough to stop an R33 GTST and 2004-2005 AWD G35, then it's good enough for my 2400-2500lbs pickup. The anticipated weight savings on these will be significant vs the 2006 G35/350z 22lbs rotor...
When it's all said an done, I'm expecting an unsprung weight savings of 22-24lbs PER wheel vs the previous setup.
I haven't bothered posting pics of the many mundane pieces that are being re-installed (door handles/locks, wiper assembly, headlights/grill). I'm getting to the point of focusing on electrical which for me is the home stretch. I still have to remove the cab one final time which is a drag, so I'm trying to get as much possible done inside the cab so there's no last-minute surprises once the cab is back on.
While the re-assembly continues, I have been focusing on upgrades. Namely in the area of front unsprung weight and some new wheels. The wheels will have to wait until the grand reveal, but let's just say they take this build to a new level - worthy of the effort and potential this truck.
In other areas I've decided to address what was a VERY porty front end. Anytime I removed the front suspension/brake assembly as a single unit off the frame, I was shocked at the weight.
First up are the front hubs. The AWD hubs use a typical ball/grease setup along with an axle spline & nut to hold it together. Due to the age and crustiness, I decided to replace and upgrade to RWD units. Thankfully the AWD uprights accepted the RWD hubs.
- AWD_vs_RWD_FrontHubs.jpg (197.21 KiB) Viewed 631 times
- CrustyUpright.jpg (136.92 KiB) Viewed 631 times
These uprights received attention in the past, per the chisel hack marks trying to get the hub/bearing out.
- NewHubMounted.jpg (129.71 KiB) Viewed 631 times
- AWDHubWeight.jpg (94.96 KiB) Viewed 631 times
- RWDHubWeight.jpg (68.03 KiB) Viewed 631 times
Weight saved with the hub swap is 2.46 lbs per wheel.
Next, I scored a set of new replacement lower TC arms ($100 CAD for the set LOL). Thankfully they too fit, after some shaving of the front hub bolt...
- AWD_TC_Weight.jpg (73.06 KiB) Viewed 631 times
- RWD_TC_Weight.jpg (91.13 KiB) Viewed 631 times
The difference between the cast iron vs aluminum was quite noticeable, 5.08 lbs/per wheel. AWD TC arms used cast iron for occasional front axle/propulsion duties which are N/A for me at this point.
- R33Caliper.jpg (95.15 KiB) Viewed 631 times
Next up, I snagged these R33 aluminum calipers, more details will be in the next post but they managed to shave 7lbs/wheel vs the 2005 G35/350z dual piston calipers. Accompanying these calipers will be will be some 2-piece rotors. These are slightly smaller at 11.75" but if it's enough to stop an R33 GTST and 2004-2005 AWD G35, then it's good enough for my 2400-2500lbs pickup. The anticipated weight savings on these will be significant vs the 2006 G35/350z 22lbs rotor...
When it's all said an done, I'm expecting an unsprung weight savings of 22-24lbs PER wheel vs the previous setup.
'72 Datsun 510 - MS KA24e, Watanabe, STI R180 & CV axles, R&P assisted steering
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
GTST R33 front caliper details
A quick post to update my front caliper change from OEM Nissan/Infiniti G35/350z 2005 cast iron slide calipers (twin piston) to Skyline R33 GTST fixed 4-piston caliper. This is a key part of my goal to reduce unsprung weight.
With pads, the fixed Sumitomo caliper is 7.26 pounds lighter.
Both calipers use the standard Nissan bolt hole distance (4") so the only major work was tapping out the mounting threads from M12 x 1.25 to M14 x 1.5
Everything worked great and the calipers mounted up like OEM.
Next I'll need new front brake lines (Z32/S14) and some Wilwood 2-piece rotors.
- SlideCaliperWeight.jpg (147.9 KiB) Viewed 581 times
With pads, the fixed Sumitomo caliper is 7.26 pounds lighter.
- FixedCaliperWeight.jpg (157.92 KiB) Viewed 581 times
Both calipers use the standard Nissan bolt hole distance (4") so the only major work was tapping out the mounting threads from M12 x 1.25 to M14 x 1.5
- Tapped.jpg (148.82 KiB) Viewed 581 times
- CaliperBolts.jpg (235.16 KiB) Viewed 581 times
Everything worked great and the calipers mounted up like OEM.
- Mounted.jpg (137.64 KiB) Viewed 581 times
Next I'll need new front brake lines (Z32/S14) and some Wilwood 2-piece rotors.
'72 Datsun 510 - MS KA24e, Watanabe, STI R180 & CV axles, R&P assisted steering
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
'76 Datsun 620 - VQ35DE, CD009, G35 suspension & brakes.
'76 Datsun 280z - Future track toy
Creativity outlet: www.datsunrestomods.com
Re: Project 635 - 300HP RWD 620
When it's all said an done, I'm expecting an unsprung weight savings of 22-24lbs PER wheel vs the previous setup.
That is impressive savings, great work sourcing all the complimentary bits.
That is impressive savings, great work sourcing all the complimentary bits.