Placed the engine in the bay for the first time in any official capacity. Looks like it will be a tight fit with the power steering rack fitting but otherwise looks very at home in this space.
Made a simple bracket inspired by the "swampthing" kswap thread. Lets me slide the engine forward and backwards while adjusting the height and rotation. Super handy.
Once the engine is placed and if anything needs clearancing I will epoxy prime the engine bay. Its nice to work on a clean surface but I wont bother fully painting until its running.
The rotor I chose is from a 2000 infinity G20. 11"x 0.86" on the front. Pairing with Wilwood Powerlite caliper. The spindle upgrade Im using is for S13 spec stuff which is 10"x0.86" which would also have been an upgrade.
Stock 510 rotor vs G20.
I was up at the cottage to do some fall stuff like pulling the boat out of the water before the trees drop and make a mess out of it. I was able to position the drivetrain a little bit while I was up there... mark for some things I will weld at home and feel good about the direction.
Trans is nice and high up in the tunnel without any reworking (yet). The only relief I will need to do is for the clutch release arm and that should go relatively easy.
After thinking a couple of days more on this, in addition to the last seven months, perhaps one line is part of the evaporation system our cars dont have?
yeah i think its some kind of fuel return or vent or something.
Its not likely I will use either of them.
Im going to have to run 2 sets of brake lines to the rear and larger fuel lines. Im hoping to incorporate a BMW ABS system into the car and now is the time to at least plumb it.
BEO 510 wrote: ↑08 Oct 2024 10:21
After thinking a couple of days more on this, in addition to the last seven months, perhaps one line is part of the evaporation system our cars dont have?
Correct. Some US 510s have that system, but not all. Early years do not for sure.
I would suggest the the second line is for the "pollution" control system, a fuel vapor line back to a small tank mounted under the rear parcel shelf.
You can just see the small tank at the top of the picture, it has the reflection of the decal on it.
I use that line now for a fuel return line...I am carburetored.
If you have that small tank...bonus...as you can use that for the fuel tank vent...then run a line down under the car through the trunk floor. That way if you tragically end up on the roof, the fuel vent will be the highest point and not drain.
Attachments
Small evap tank under shelf.
the whole system.JPG (133.06 KiB) Viewed 632 times
diff catch can and fuel sump.JPG (118.03 KiB) Viewed 632 times
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Working on the front brakes and adapters. I drew up some adapters on fusion and had a friend 3d print them before i go and build them from metal. They are Powerlite calipers that are a new design from wilwood. I chose them because they have a relatively low profile for smaller wheels and for better wheel face clearance. Other options exist that would probably be preferable for a track car that would have bigger pad volume and stuff but this works for a street car that needs a bit better braking. Will be looking into something to do in the rear soon too...
I have welded some mount pads to the JBC subframe to use Corvette engine isolators for my swap. The isolators will sit vertically and will allow me to shim the engine if needed. The last time I made engine mounts that had as tight of clearance as I have here (without tunnel work) the engine mounts did sag a little with engine weight over time.
Lastly, Im planning to use a large poly shackle bushing for my trans mount. The trans fits the tunnel really well as-is but if I make it mounted high up it gets tighter and tighter. So im going to use poly to limit the vertical movement and mount it so the whole thing can easily rotate on the front engine mounts. It probably wont move much, but Im hoping its enough to absorb some NVH. The poly kit came with 2 bushing sets. I might put some speed holes in one of these bushings and add a grease fitting to fill it up.
