I tried to search, I swear, but the advanced search tool doesn't do "phrases" very well.
I need to change the front main crank seal in the timing cover, and it's been a few years. Any tricks to getting the pulley off and the seal changed while the motor is in the car, or is pulling the engine the only way?
Any advice or tips would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Front crank seal question
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datzenmike
- Supporter
- Posts: 6120
- Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
- Location: Van. Isle.
Re: Front crank seal question
I'd remove the radiator for room and to protect it.
I think the crankshaft bolt it 25mm maybe 27mm. Put a short extension on it and a breaker bar positioned so the bar is up against the right under side of the sub frame. Give the starter a 'bump' the crankshaft turns clockwise as seen from the front and the bolt will make a loud crack sound and come loose. Turn the engine to either TDC positions. Spin the bolt and washer out.
Tap the engine side of the pulley with the heavy socket driving the pulley slowly forward and off the crankshaft end. Expect this to take 40 or 50 good solid taps but it will work itself off given time. The crankshaft has a woodruf key at the 12 o'clock position fitting the key way in the pulley to position and hold it, so look for it and capture it if it dislodges.
The seal can now be pried out with a large screwdriver. Avoid scoring the timing cover surface the seal fits against. Grease the new seal lips so it does not start up dry. Position the new seal and hold in place with a large suitable size socket or short length of pipe that is the same diameter as the seal but will fit over the crankshaft end and hammer into place till fully seated.
Carefully tap the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft making sure the woodruf key is in position. Place in fourth gear and set the hand brake, probably would not hurt to chock the wheels to prevent the car moving forward. Spin the crankshaft bolt on and tighten to 87-116 ft. lbs.
I think the crankshaft bolt it 25mm maybe 27mm. Put a short extension on it and a breaker bar positioned so the bar is up against the right under side of the sub frame. Give the starter a 'bump' the crankshaft turns clockwise as seen from the front and the bolt will make a loud crack sound and come loose. Turn the engine to either TDC positions. Spin the bolt and washer out.
Tap the engine side of the pulley with the heavy socket driving the pulley slowly forward and off the crankshaft end. Expect this to take 40 or 50 good solid taps but it will work itself off given time. The crankshaft has a woodruf key at the 12 o'clock position fitting the key way in the pulley to position and hold it, so look for it and capture it if it dislodges.
The seal can now be pried out with a large screwdriver. Avoid scoring the timing cover surface the seal fits against. Grease the new seal lips so it does not start up dry. Position the new seal and hold in place with a large suitable size socket or short length of pipe that is the same diameter as the seal but will fit over the crankshaft end and hammer into place till fully seated.
Carefully tap the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft making sure the woodruf key is in position. Place in fourth gear and set the hand brake, probably would not hurt to chock the wheels to prevent the car moving forward. Spin the crankshaft bolt on and tighten to 87-116 ft. lbs.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
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farmer_fred
- Posts: 82
- Joined: 29 Jan 2007 15:39
Re: Front crank seal question
Hey thank you! I have been trying to access the site and been getting an error message.
I planned to take out the radiator, but your tips should help.
Cheers
I planned to take out the radiator, but your tips should help.
Cheers