Front crank seal question

[farmer_fred]

I tried to search, I swear, but the advanced search tool doesn't do "phrases" very well.

I need to change the front main crank seal in the timing cover, and it's been a few years. Any tricks to getting the pulley off and the seal changed while the motor is in the car, or is pulling the engine the only way?

Any advice or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[datzenmike]

I'd remove the radiator for room and to protect it.

I think the crankshaft bolt it 25mm maybe 27mm. Put a short extension on it and a breaker bar positioned so the bar is up against the right under side of the sub frame. Give the starter a 'bump' the crankshaft turns clockwise as seen from the front and the bolt will make a loud crack sound and come loose. Turn the engine to either TDC positions. Spin the bolt and washer out.

Tap the engine side of the pulley with the heavy socket driving the pulley slowly forward and off the crankshaft end. Expect this to take 40 or 50 good solid taps but it will work itself off given time. The crankshaft has a woodruf key at the 12 o'clock position fitting the key way in the pulley to position and hold it, so look for it and capture it if it dislodges.

The seal can now be pried out with a large screwdriver. Avoid scoring the timing cover surface the seal fits against. Grease the new seal lips so it does not start up dry. Position the new seal and hold in place with a large suitable size socket or short length of pipe that is the same diameter as the seal but will fit over the crankshaft end and hammer into place till fully seated.

Carefully tap the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft making sure the woodruf key is in position. Place in fourth gear and set the hand brake, probably would not hurt to chock the wheels to prevent the car moving forward. Spin the crankshaft bolt on and tighten to 87-116 ft. lbs.

[farmer_fred]

Hey thank you! I have been trying to access the site and been getting an error message.

I planned to take out the radiator, but your tips should help.

Cheers

[farmer_fred]

Well, that went easier than I anticipated! The starter trick took one try. Crank bolt is 27mm. The pulley came off without much tapping, and the seal popped out pretty smoothly with my seal-puller. It was definitely the source of leakage!

I had a leftover seal from a gasket kit but it's a no-name from a cheap set and it's old, so I'll get a new one.

One follow-up question: there was a steel ring part behind the seal that seemed loose, and it has a notch for the key, and it came out with a magnet once the seal was removed:



I'll dig out my service book, but what is the purpose? My motor is a Japanese market L18 SSS if it matters.

Thanks again!

[farmer_fred]

Update: so that part is the oil "slinger". It was installed with the side facing up in the photo pointing toward the crank pulley. Some searching indicates maybe it should be left out? I couldn't find anything in my "How to Hot-Rod" book (revised 1984 edition)

[Byron510]

There are two schools of thought here. Yes the slinger helps the seal work better. However if your a high reving type of driver, and because the seal materials improved over the years, the new seal will work fine without the slinger. In high reving situations, the seal would work against the seals backside and wear it out, hence the deletion of the part,
I too have deleted the oil slinger for years on more engines than I can count, and front seal leakage has never been an issue
Thanks for posting.
Byron

[farmer_fred]

Thanks Byron,

I will not be spinning this motor to very high rpms, so I will put it back in when I reassemble. I just wanted to fix a major leak. I ordered an OEM seal from Z-Car depot and it's on the way. The de-greasing will be the worst part of the job!

[iceman510]

There are two schools of thought here. Yes the slinger helps the seal work better. However if your a high reving type of driver, and because the seal materials improved over the years, the new seal will work fine without the slinger. In high reving situations, the seal would work against the seals backside and wear it out, hence the deletion of the part,
I too have deleted the oil slinger for years on more engines than I can count, and front seal leakage has never been an issue
Thanks for posting.
Byron

Wow, in all my years with 510s I have never heard this. I'll have to check if it is in my race engine.

[Pista_510]

I would say that this slinger was probably very necessary in the early days of the L-series...with a crankshaft sprocket / timing chain literally mere millimeters from the seal flinging hot oil furiously at it, it would have been a durability item to prevent breaching the seal and causing a leak.....I guess it is possible that seal materials have improved significantly to withstand this.