Mary-Ann, stock one-owner 1972 Wagon

[DownShiftRecords]

Just got the quote back. Facing around $6000 for a rebuild (labor included)

[StrutlessWonder]

Sounds like you need to gather some east coast SPEC-510 buddies and buy pizza and beer while you swap in a used L20b and maybe a new radiator for under $1k, food and drink, used motor and assoc new parts included. Where's Qwik510? $6k? Pheesh. This isn't a Volvo or BMW. I'd find another shop. And if you wanted to keep the orig engine so the car is numbers-matching, you could learn to rebuild it on your own at a later date. Makes a great living room science project.

[okayfine]

Concur. Do you have an itemized list from the rebuilder? I'd love to see that.

Do you even know if it needs a rebuild? An overheat generally means the head warps a little and the HG needs replacing. Unless an overheat is catastrophic, lower ends will survive. The L-series is really overbuilt.

Do you have experience with things mechanical? Yourself, some space, some money, and the "How to Keep Your Datsun Alive" book will be all you need, even if the whole engine has to be rebuilt. I rebuilt a JY L20B in college with next to no knowledge (and no 510 Internet support as we know it) and it all worked, and worked well.

$6000 - did they mistakenly hear (or did you forget to include that you suggested) to swap in an SR20?

[goichi1]

What?? overheated?? that's a new thermostat, good coolant, so I'm not sure how it could have overheated? Did the belt break? I'm also with Okayfine, why do you think it needs a complete rebuild? that motor was totally rebuild a while ago and didn't have that many miles on it since, it ran really smooth and I just can't see how it would need to be rebuilt. Why do you need a new radiator? did something just fail? I would def look into another shop before you spend that much money.

[okayfine]

Perfect time to get greasy with your new car. Can't really own a 510 unless you can work on it.

[Pedro]

Sounds like the shop doesn't want to do the work therefore is quoting something stupid.

[qwik510]

Sounds like you need to gather some east coast SPEC-510 buddies and buy pizza and beer while you swap in a used L20b and maybe a new radiator for under $1k, food and drink, used motor and assoc new parts included. Where's Qwik510? $6k? Pheesh. This isn't a Volvo or BMW. I'd find another shop. And if you wanted to keep the orig engine so the car is numbers-matching, you could learn to rebuild it on your own at a later date. Makes a great living room science project.

I am here and I have reached out to the owner in the past and never heard back. Sorry to hear that the engine is toast. $6K for a rebuild on an L16? Someone has been drinking the koolaid.
I happen to have an L20B here and a radiator too. Lots of other 510 goodies too.

Give me a call if you need some help.

301-651-7788

7 510s in my stable right now.

David

[qwik510]

BTW,

I am in Silver Spring and my GF is in Gaithersburg so I am up that way all the time. I would be happy to swing by and see what is up with the car. Maybe a head gasket? Also my friend Vince, an ASE mechanic and fellow 510 owner, could come along and we can help. Just reach out and ask. Your Datsun family is here for you.

[Super X]

Just got the quote back. Facing around $6000 for a rebuild (labor included)

Wow!! For that price that better be a 2.2 setup from Speed Shop Kubo out of Japan.

It's amazing the numbers the people throw out there.

[70bird]

For that price I'll come there from the west coast and rebuild it myself!

[DownShiftRecords]

BTW,

I am in Silver Spring and my GF is in Gaithersburg so I am up that way all the time. I would be happy to swing by and see what is up with the car. Maybe a head gasket? Also my friend Vince, an ASE mechanic and fellow 510 owner, could come along and we can help. Just reach out and ask. Your Datsun family is here for you.

Sweet! I definitely need to see more of the Datsun community around the DMV area, especially MD.

What I did was have the radiator recoiled by my friend/mechanic Howard, I changed the oil and oil filter, bought a Chilton's Repair Guide for Datsun 1961 to 1972 1500-1600-2000•410•411•510•1200•240Z's and a Clymer Service and Repair handbook for 510•610•710's between '68-'77 and with all that, she's been running fine since. I think what had happened was sitting in that Washington DC traffic from Rolling Thunder in combination with the 90 degree weather was just a tad bit much for her at the time. After cooling down and recoiling that radiator, she hasn't come close to overheating. Which is good!


Here are the two handbooks that were delivered about 3 days ago


New oil filter on. Put on a PH-8A as opposed to Chilton's listed PH-2850


So now she's out and about again, running into new things all the time.


She's helping me begin to realize the pain of others....

But yesterday I had the unfortunate pleasure of picking her up.....from an impound lot.....
Yup, she got towed because the apartment complex I was parked at felt that they didn't need to differentiate between residential and visitor parking spaces, I should have already known....even though I don't live there. So while I was at a housewarming party, Mary-Ann was taken 12.4 miles away, so that wasn't much fun

[okayfine]

bought a Chilton's Repair Guide for Datsun 1961 to 1972 1500-1600-2000•410•411•510•1200•240Z's and a Clymer Service and Repair handbook for 510•610•710's between '68-'77

Ditch those and find yourself a copy of the "How To Keep Your Datsun Alive" book by Colin Meser. Worth every penny.

New oil filter on. Put on a PH-8A as opposed to Chilton's listed PH-2850

Would also suggest something better than Fram. Purolater is what I use.

May also want to take the time to download the DQs, specifically the one about calibrating your temp gauge. Verifies what you're seeing is worth believing, and also gives you a numerical reference for the T E M P scale.

[DownShiftRecords]

Perfect time to get greasy with your new car. Can't really own a 510 unless you can work on it.

And with that, I can not agree more. My biggest issue now is that my garage is very cramped to work in and i really have no place to properly work on Mary-Ann and learn everything I can about her.

Would also suggest something better than Fram. Purolater is what I use.

And I was looking for a PER-17 while I was shopping around the other day, couldn't find anyone who had one in stock so I went with the Fram for the time being. Which Purolater are you using?

[okayfine]

Lots of Purolater filters that will work. Smaller diameter, full depth can is L20064. Big diameter, full depth can is L30119. Those are just two numbers, I don't even remember what Purolater says for an L16.

Since the PH8A works, tons cross to that as well.

[James]

WIX 51515 works well. Also agree on the chilton's manuals. They leave a lot to the imagination. Glad you are up and running again.